Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Tues, 6/2
Start: Leon
End: Leon
Distance: 6.37 km

1. Sleeping in

Since we stayed in a private hostal which was a room with three beds, we got the luxury of good night sleep with no snoring (seriously, some people can be impressive) and didn't have to leave until 12. So we slept in til 830! Then lounged around until we had to leave and went to an albergue

2. Lounging around Leon basically consisted of moving from plaza to plaza just relaxing, eating some pinchos, having a drink or two, and just relaxing with other pilgrims in Leon. Pilgrims are pretty easy to spot due to their physical ailments which affect how they move as well as their physical apparel. It's kind of funny really. 

3. Overall impression of Leon

Since we took the day off, it really allowed us to enjoy Leon. Personally, it has been my favorite city so far. I don't really know why I liked it more than Burgos or Pamplona, but I do. Maybe it's the layout, the people, or perhaps the timing. 

4. While I enjoyed the day off and it was much needed, it definitely felt unusual not walking to a new place. As a result, we've ran into a bunch of new people and old friends have caught up. My body is happy that I took the day off. It definitely feels better but at the same time, not a 100%. I think it was necessary to let my body relax a day, yet it will still have it's aches and pains every day til I'm done

Tuesday, June 3, 2014

Day 18? They're blurring together

6/2
Start: Mansilla de las Mulas
End: Leon
Distance: 23.44 km

1. Blister lady and German dude

The lady at the last municipal was the blister lady. She took care of my blisters without question, told me that they shouldn't be an issue, and how to know when to pop them. The German in the albergue was able to show me a better way to wrap my ankle. It seemed to help and showed me some things to prevent blisters on my toes. Both of them scolded me for the duct tape use since it's for construction and not for the body, but it worked...

2. Short day, all on pavement

Walking on pavement is awful. It was only 23 km into Leon but it was on all pavement along the road. It was no fun. It hurts the feet, there's typically nothing to see, and typically I don't like walking along the road but hey that's just me. This leads to my next point

3. Walking into big cities

It is awful. You are walking along the road on pavement which after walking so far, it hurts. There's no give. More importantly, I have two main reasons for my dislike of walking into a city. 

3a. Typically, when you see a city, town, village it's with 5k, or 3.1 miles. That's doable and can help push into where you're going to stop for a break or the day. However, in a big city that 5k is probably to the suburb. You have at least 2k until you hit the city then you have to find the place to stop. Therefore, you're looking at more like 7k+ which is a killer

3b. You walk through suburb and the industrial areas of the city. For example, we walked through car dealerships and mechanic shops for a good 3k yesterday. Not fun.

4. Pizza and everything we needed

We have been craving pizza and ice cream for a while now. We were able to find both of these pretty quickly. The first pizza, yes I said first pizza, was mediocre at best in quality but it was incredible due to desire and need for food. We found a nice private hostal that would allow us to sleep in and not be with 70-100 others. Then, ice cream happened as my friend Nilaj went looking for new shoes since he was walking soleless. Overall, it's started out as a good rest day. I'd imagine that yesterday was the most food and calories I've consumed all trip. 

5. Leon is cool so far

We walked around a bit last night, probably more than we should have, and got to see some of the city. It's pretty cool in my opinion. Id say it's my favorite out of Pamplona and Burgos so far. Granted I've not seen much but still see the point above. It reminds me a lot of Sevilla and is a stereotypical Spanish city especially when it comes to the old town. I'll have a better write up tonight. 

For those of you following this blog, I don't always post via social media that it's updated but it typically gets a post daily depending on whether the place has wifi.

Sunday, June 1, 2014

The Last Three Days (for real)

I feel the need to clarify and explain myself about the busegrinos. For those of you unaware what a busegrino is, look back at previous posts. For me, there's a difference between a bus tour and a pilgrim taking a bus. The bus tour where you go town to town bothers me. However, there are pilgrims who bus or take a taxi for part of the Camino. This may be for physical reasons, such as injury, fatigue, or inability to walk the entire way, or simply it's a matter of time. Everyone gets to Santiago in their own time and manner. Therefore, I see no problems with using a vehicle to get to another town. But to bus the entire way in a "tour" package is what troubles me. 

Anywho, back to the thoughts

5/30
Start: Corríon de las Condes
End: Ledigos
Distance: 26.04 km

1. 17km start

Were in the Meseta which is nothing. So, we have the luxury to walk 17 km to the next town. Imagine Kansas, or a flat wheat field, and then walk straight with that to your right and left. Do that for 17 km, or approximately 11 miles, with no houses, food, water, or anything. I'd probably pass someone every 45 minutes, or theyd pass me. There was no shade or benches. It was definitely a mental challenge.

2. Pack weight

Since there were no stops, you had to carry enough water and food for emergencies. It's crazy how much weight some peanuts, two bananas and some meat can add. I've grown accustomed to the weight but the addition of the food was surprising cause I could feel it. 

3. The race for beds

Sometimes it feels like you're racing for a bed each day which is annoying. Some days you have to worry about not have a place to stay and keep walking. So far, we've been close but not actually been without a bed

4. Midpoint

We got to the mileage halfway point. It's crazy to think that we are halfway and it's been 390 km.

5/31
Start: Ledigos
End: Bercianos del Real Camino
Distance: 29 km

1.  Ran into Art and Greg

They are retired friends from Columbus, Ohio who we ran into about a week ago. They had some leg issues and needed to bus ahead to stay on schedule. It was great to run into them and catch up. I had dinner with them both and they are a wealth of knowledge. 

2. Relatively easy day

It was still difficult but on the easier side. 

3. Feet in bad shape

You'll just have to see the photo. My feet dont look good. They've got blisters and my ankle isn't ideal. But I can walk and I am doing fine. I guess that's the price you pay or walking 390km

4. Geographical midpoint

Today was the geographical midpoint which I don't know what the difference between the geographical midpoint and the mileage midpoint. Anyway, were halfway.

Midpoint reflection

It's hard to think it's halfway. I don't know how to put it in words. I'm glad it's halfway. Were almost done. It's promising. Yet, it's still 390km away. Kinda daunting. We've got mountains to climb still. It will still be challenging. While my routine is now the norm, I can't say that it's getting easier. It's still a challenge every day. Some days mentally, others physically. Regardless, I'm happy I'm doing this. I expect to finish, both God and body willing. It can and will be done. I'm on schedule which is good and a bit surprising. 

6/1
Start: Bercianos del Real Camino
End: Mansilla de las Mulas
Distance:  29km

1. It was 13 km into a vast walk of nothing between towns. Before that, it was 7 km. Not very fun or exciting but hey what can you do. 

2. My feet are worse. That is all

3. We go into Leon tomorrow and will have a rest day the following day. It will be needed on all levels

Thursday, May 29, 2014

Day 15

5/27
Start: Itergo de Vega
End: Corríon de Condes
Distance: 37.5 km

1. Coming together

It's awesome to see the camaraderie after a long day of walking. Everyones in a cheerful mood lounging around, doing laundry or cooking and eating. No ones a stranger here and everyone is welcome to our space, food, wine, and company. Language doesn't matter. 

2. Seeing the new and the old

Since you get place to place via your feet or bike, it's very easy to meet new people, either a slower or faster pace, and seeing the same people. We've pushed ahead and lost a few daily people and others have done the same with us. 

It's great to see new people and spice it up a bit. However, at the same time it's great to see people you expected not to see again.

3. Meal in Hontanas

Speaking of that, I dont remember if I talked about it, but the meal two nights ago was awesome. Great food and great company. It was us 3 Americans and 3 Brazilians. It was a mix of Spanish, Italian, and Portuguese that was spoken.

But, since we went slower yesterday I wasn't sure if we would see them again but sure enough we ran into them today.

4. No camera 

I've not used it while walking the last two days and it's been a blessing and a curse. I've missed out on cool photos but still I've enjoyed not taking them.

5. 37.5 km....

At least 4660 calories were burned. Absolutely ridiculous. I do not want to walk that much again. It was easier than the 40 km but still difficult especially with an upset stomach. But I'm here I'm able and feeling good. That's all that matters

6. New blisters

Ive got four, not ideal but they're not painful yet. We will see what they look like in the morning and deal with them accordingly.

7. Duct tape

If it can fix the space station, it'll work on the Camino. I've got tape all over my boots right now and a friend is using it as prevention for blisters. Duct tape does wonders

Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Days 12 and 13 Thoughts

5/26
Start: Burgos
End: Hontanas
Distance: 39.5 km

1. The best night of sleep ever.

It was amazing. I slept so well and was well rested. It was the best night of sleep since I've been in Spain. Good thing too since we walked 39.5km....

2. Favoritism to donativos

I've now stayed in a donativo twice. It runs on volunteers and donations from the peregrinos there. They are typically attached to a church or parish. At both, a mass was before a communal dinner. It was just an overall great experience. There are typically few people who go to these and therefore you actually get to know one another and it's more personal.

3. 39km damn near 40km

That's 24.5 miles for you Americans. The longest I've ever walked in a day and the most I ever want to. It was rough but I got through it. That's all that matters. 

4. Revelations come out of no where, shocking I know.

5. Everyone is on the Camino for different reasons. 

5/27
Start: Hontanas
End: Itergo de Vega
Distance: 25.74 km

1. Rain sucks. We walked all day in the rain. It was not fun. It was a consistent rain and as we climbed a "mountain" it was a downpour. Hopefully the rain will hold. It sucks. Ominous clouds are awful especially when you can't out walk it.... 

2. La Meseta is what we are walking through right now. It's basically relatively flat with wheat fields and that's all you can see. Maybe a few windmills but that's it. So, it's hit or miss on how nice of a walk it is. 

3. The views. 

As I said above, it's hit or miss but today as we came down the mountain, it was great as was looking back at the villages we left. 

4. Monastery with the locos. 

We were struggling this morning in the rain and were gonna stop at a monastery which was built and used in the 1500s. Now it's a volunteer ran donativo albergue. As I was walking up to it, a massive tour bus flew by and let out people. They were going crazy, getting photos, running around, and getting a sello, or stamp saying they were there. They were there for no more than 5 minutes. It was hectic. But the hospitalera, the volunteer, came running over and was inviting to us, shooing away some of the other people, asking where we are from, where we came from today, where we were going and what she could do to help us. It helped take away from the craziness.

As she pored us coffee, some of the buserinos as we called them asked for coffee as well. She told them off saying it was not a bar, but the coffee was for peregrinos and not tourists. Her goal was to keep the peregrinos welcomed, happy, and unperturbed. It was so welcoming. I don't know how many people took my picture, but it had to be a bunch. 

I don't really know why, but I was a little upset, hmm I don't know if that's the right word. Maybe rubbed me the wrong way. I dont know. Eh, it was just ... I don't know how to put it into words. It was disappointing to see, frustrating to deal with, and just I guess wrong? A "tourist" was walking around and saw a shower and toilet and was confused. I guess that's the best way to put it. They didn't realize that to us peregrinos, it was shelter from the storm; it was a place to recoup; it is a place to sleep at night; and most importantly, the volunteers and peregrinos within help push us forward to the next town. Either way, the volunteers were immensely helpful. 

5. El Patio is a bar in Castrojeriz, one of the small towns we walked through. We met the owner in Pamplona and she told us to stop by. So we did.  

Monday, May 26, 2014

Atapuerca to Burgos

5/26
Start: Atapuerca
End: Burgos
Distance: 21.03km

1. Some days are just rough. Physically I feel fine, mentally not so much. I'm not feeling so hot. I don't think I'm sick but it's just one of those days you just want to lay around and do nothing for me. Luckily it's an easier day. 

2. The first week is the physical challenge, the second week is the mental challenge. I feel like I have my Camino legs. The distance doesn't bother my body, but towards the end of the day, it gets rough

3. Some lady helped me. She saw me sit down to rest and started talking to me. I guess I was about a kilometer away and she was encouraging me to keep going. She went out of her way and walked me there. Unfortunately, she was leading me to the wrong albergue and we both finally found it and had a good laugh about it. The extra 2 km was nothing to worry about. It was fun talking to her and she helped me get through the last km

4. Burgos cathedral. Saw it today. It was massive. El Cid is buried there too. It was cool to see. I've got pictures which will go up when I'm in the States but it's similar to any other large cathedral. It was nice to see but it makes the day different because we went to see Burgos instead of chilling around which may show tomorrow

Sunday, May 25, 2014

I've decided to do thoughts of the day and possibly a brief write up on the hike itself. Unfortunately, I was going to do this yesterday, 5/24, but as I went to copy it into an email, I lost all my notes. So it'll be a combination of yesterday and today. 

5/24
Start: Grañon
End: Villafranca Montes de Oca
Distance: 31.5km

5/25
Start: Villafranca Montes de Oca
End: Atapureca
Distance: 20.65km

Today was the shortest day but  difficult. It was 12km of forested trail through the mountains. Nothing changed at all which made it rough. Trees on trees on trees. But, my body needed it and it'll be a "shorter" day tomorrow to Burgos as well. We are currently a half day ahead of my schedule so that's good but will be level tomorrow. 

1. Donativo

So two nights ago, we stayed in a donativo which means you pay as much as you want. Leave what you can, take what you need was the philosophy. We were on mats in the attic of the church. It was a cool experience. 

Dinner was a communal meal. It was a nice, but simple meal. The interesting part of the meal was that it was all paid for by the pilgrims the night before. Our donations paid for the next night. There were two volunteers who ran the hospital, which stands for hospitality. It's been around for centuries and it is all about being hospitable and hence the pay as much as you want and the volunteers on two week rotations. 

2. Mass

There was a mass before dinner at the donativo. It was really nice and very spiritual. There was a special blessing for the pilgrims at the end. 

3. The people

They are so nice. I've yet to have a bad conversation. 

3a. The villagers

The hospitality they show is incredible. We go through towns with less than 30 and there are more pilgrims who pass through and/or stay at the village than actual villagers. Yet, they always say hello, "buen camino", or just stop for a conversation. I've had Spaniards stop what they're doing and just talk to me. It's so helpful and awesome. 

3b. Peregrinos

At the end of the day, it's basically just walking a bunch, eating a bunch, then not sleeping enough. However, the people you meet help make the day. Having a conversation while walking helps pass the time and I've found them to be quiet entertaining. I've met a wide array of people and had great conversations. Everyone is welcoming and looking to relax. Dinner time is just lounging around and talking and getting to know other peregrinos. 

4. The small things

People talking to you make a huge difference. It can push you to the top of the hill. A buen Camino can get you through a city. I've had a villager walk with me for a kilometer, the opposite direction, just talking to me and helping me get through the town.

The sun today just helped us get through the forest. 

You here it all the time but it truly shows that a small act of kindness can go really far. 

5. The body and walking

It can be a struggle to walk upwards of 25k a day. Today was our shortest day which was 17k after doing 30k for the last four days. It can take a toll but it's a part of the Camino.

Today was 12k of the same thing, a forest. It was awful. 

6. "The day is the same, but the path is different"

My friend has been saying that. It's true. Every day consists of getting up, walking, eating, walking more, eating a bit more, some wine then bed. Each day it's walking from one town to the other. 

But the path is different since you are different (physically, mentally, and/or spiritually), the people you meet are different, and the place you're going is different.

This may be because of peoples moods, aches and pains, or a variety of options but the fact remains, everyday is different. 

7. I found Cruzcampo! Finally! Por dios everyone has some Cruzcampo something or other but never sells it... It was the sentimental value of remembering Sevilla which made it even better after a long walk.