Thursday, May 29, 2014

Day 15

5/27
Start: Itergo de Vega
End: Corríon de Condes
Distance: 37.5 km

1. Coming together

It's awesome to see the camaraderie after a long day of walking. Everyones in a cheerful mood lounging around, doing laundry or cooking and eating. No ones a stranger here and everyone is welcome to our space, food, wine, and company. Language doesn't matter. 

2. Seeing the new and the old

Since you get place to place via your feet or bike, it's very easy to meet new people, either a slower or faster pace, and seeing the same people. We've pushed ahead and lost a few daily people and others have done the same with us. 

It's great to see new people and spice it up a bit. However, at the same time it's great to see people you expected not to see again.

3. Meal in Hontanas

Speaking of that, I dont remember if I talked about it, but the meal two nights ago was awesome. Great food and great company. It was us 3 Americans and 3 Brazilians. It was a mix of Spanish, Italian, and Portuguese that was spoken.

But, since we went slower yesterday I wasn't sure if we would see them again but sure enough we ran into them today.

4. No camera 

I've not used it while walking the last two days and it's been a blessing and a curse. I've missed out on cool photos but still I've enjoyed not taking them.

5. 37.5 km....

At least 4660 calories were burned. Absolutely ridiculous. I do not want to walk that much again. It was easier than the 40 km but still difficult especially with an upset stomach. But I'm here I'm able and feeling good. That's all that matters

6. New blisters

Ive got four, not ideal but they're not painful yet. We will see what they look like in the morning and deal with them accordingly.

7. Duct tape

If it can fix the space station, it'll work on the Camino. I've got tape all over my boots right now and a friend is using it as prevention for blisters. Duct tape does wonders

Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Days 12 and 13 Thoughts

5/26
Start: Burgos
End: Hontanas
Distance: 39.5 km

1. The best night of sleep ever.

It was amazing. I slept so well and was well rested. It was the best night of sleep since I've been in Spain. Good thing too since we walked 39.5km....

2. Favoritism to donativos

I've now stayed in a donativo twice. It runs on volunteers and donations from the peregrinos there. They are typically attached to a church or parish. At both, a mass was before a communal dinner. It was just an overall great experience. There are typically few people who go to these and therefore you actually get to know one another and it's more personal.

3. 39km damn near 40km

That's 24.5 miles for you Americans. The longest I've ever walked in a day and the most I ever want to. It was rough but I got through it. That's all that matters. 

4. Revelations come out of no where, shocking I know.

5. Everyone is on the Camino for different reasons. 

5/27
Start: Hontanas
End: Itergo de Vega
Distance: 25.74 km

1. Rain sucks. We walked all day in the rain. It was not fun. It was a consistent rain and as we climbed a "mountain" it was a downpour. Hopefully the rain will hold. It sucks. Ominous clouds are awful especially when you can't out walk it.... 

2. La Meseta is what we are walking through right now. It's basically relatively flat with wheat fields and that's all you can see. Maybe a few windmills but that's it. So, it's hit or miss on how nice of a walk it is. 

3. The views. 

As I said above, it's hit or miss but today as we came down the mountain, it was great as was looking back at the villages we left. 

4. Monastery with the locos. 

We were struggling this morning in the rain and were gonna stop at a monastery which was built and used in the 1500s. Now it's a volunteer ran donativo albergue. As I was walking up to it, a massive tour bus flew by and let out people. They were going crazy, getting photos, running around, and getting a sello, or stamp saying they were there. They were there for no more than 5 minutes. It was hectic. But the hospitalera, the volunteer, came running over and was inviting to us, shooing away some of the other people, asking where we are from, where we came from today, where we were going and what she could do to help us. It helped take away from the craziness.

As she pored us coffee, some of the buserinos as we called them asked for coffee as well. She told them off saying it was not a bar, but the coffee was for peregrinos and not tourists. Her goal was to keep the peregrinos welcomed, happy, and unperturbed. It was so welcoming. I don't know how many people took my picture, but it had to be a bunch. 

I don't really know why, but I was a little upset, hmm I don't know if that's the right word. Maybe rubbed me the wrong way. I dont know. Eh, it was just ... I don't know how to put it into words. It was disappointing to see, frustrating to deal with, and just I guess wrong? A "tourist" was walking around and saw a shower and toilet and was confused. I guess that's the best way to put it. They didn't realize that to us peregrinos, it was shelter from the storm; it was a place to recoup; it is a place to sleep at night; and most importantly, the volunteers and peregrinos within help push us forward to the next town. Either way, the volunteers were immensely helpful. 

5. El Patio is a bar in Castrojeriz, one of the small towns we walked through. We met the owner in Pamplona and she told us to stop by. So we did.  

Monday, May 26, 2014

Atapuerca to Burgos

5/26
Start: Atapuerca
End: Burgos
Distance: 21.03km

1. Some days are just rough. Physically I feel fine, mentally not so much. I'm not feeling so hot. I don't think I'm sick but it's just one of those days you just want to lay around and do nothing for me. Luckily it's an easier day. 

2. The first week is the physical challenge, the second week is the mental challenge. I feel like I have my Camino legs. The distance doesn't bother my body, but towards the end of the day, it gets rough

3. Some lady helped me. She saw me sit down to rest and started talking to me. I guess I was about a kilometer away and she was encouraging me to keep going. She went out of her way and walked me there. Unfortunately, she was leading me to the wrong albergue and we both finally found it and had a good laugh about it. The extra 2 km was nothing to worry about. It was fun talking to her and she helped me get through the last km

4. Burgos cathedral. Saw it today. It was massive. El Cid is buried there too. It was cool to see. I've got pictures which will go up when I'm in the States but it's similar to any other large cathedral. It was nice to see but it makes the day different because we went to see Burgos instead of chilling around which may show tomorrow

Sunday, May 25, 2014

I've decided to do thoughts of the day and possibly a brief write up on the hike itself. Unfortunately, I was going to do this yesterday, 5/24, but as I went to copy it into an email, I lost all my notes. So it'll be a combination of yesterday and today. 

5/24
Start: Grañon
End: Villafranca Montes de Oca
Distance: 31.5km

5/25
Start: Villafranca Montes de Oca
End: Atapureca
Distance: 20.65km

Today was the shortest day but  difficult. It was 12km of forested trail through the mountains. Nothing changed at all which made it rough. Trees on trees on trees. But, my body needed it and it'll be a "shorter" day tomorrow to Burgos as well. We are currently a half day ahead of my schedule so that's good but will be level tomorrow. 

1. Donativo

So two nights ago, we stayed in a donativo which means you pay as much as you want. Leave what you can, take what you need was the philosophy. We were on mats in the attic of the church. It was a cool experience. 

Dinner was a communal meal. It was a nice, but simple meal. The interesting part of the meal was that it was all paid for by the pilgrims the night before. Our donations paid for the next night. There were two volunteers who ran the hospital, which stands for hospitality. It's been around for centuries and it is all about being hospitable and hence the pay as much as you want and the volunteers on two week rotations. 

2. Mass

There was a mass before dinner at the donativo. It was really nice and very spiritual. There was a special blessing for the pilgrims at the end. 

3. The people

They are so nice. I've yet to have a bad conversation. 

3a. The villagers

The hospitality they show is incredible. We go through towns with less than 30 and there are more pilgrims who pass through and/or stay at the village than actual villagers. Yet, they always say hello, "buen camino", or just stop for a conversation. I've had Spaniards stop what they're doing and just talk to me. It's so helpful and awesome. 

3b. Peregrinos

At the end of the day, it's basically just walking a bunch, eating a bunch, then not sleeping enough. However, the people you meet help make the day. Having a conversation while walking helps pass the time and I've found them to be quiet entertaining. I've met a wide array of people and had great conversations. Everyone is welcoming and looking to relax. Dinner time is just lounging around and talking and getting to know other peregrinos. 

4. The small things

People talking to you make a huge difference. It can push you to the top of the hill. A buen Camino can get you through a city. I've had a villager walk with me for a kilometer, the opposite direction, just talking to me and helping me get through the town.

The sun today just helped us get through the forest. 

You here it all the time but it truly shows that a small act of kindness can go really far. 

5. The body and walking

It can be a struggle to walk upwards of 25k a day. Today was our shortest day which was 17k after doing 30k for the last four days. It can take a toll but it's a part of the Camino.

Today was 12k of the same thing, a forest. It was awful. 

6. "The day is the same, but the path is different"

My friend has been saying that. It's true. Every day consists of getting up, walking, eating, walking more, eating a bit more, some wine then bed. Each day it's walking from one town to the other. 

But the path is different since you are different (physically, mentally, and/or spiritually), the people you meet are different, and the place you're going is different.

This may be because of peoples moods, aches and pains, or a variety of options but the fact remains, everyday is different. 

7. I found Cruzcampo! Finally! Por dios everyone has some Cruzcampo something or other but never sells it... It was the sentimental value of remembering Sevilla which made it even better after a long walk. 

Friday, May 23, 2014

So I figured out the issue and a work around. Long story short, Google and Apple aren't cooperating. So doing this via email. I hope to update with thoughts daily. 

Anywho, to catch up, I guess today was, what, day 9 on the trail. It's difficult to keep track of the days and the schedule. 

First day was difficult. The best way to describe it is hell. It was pure hell. It was 27km (sorry find a metric calculator to convert) up over the Prynnees and back down. It took 10 hour and was the most difficult thing I've ever done physically or mentally.

Day two was 29 km to the next city which was equally difficult on a sprained ankle. 

On average, we have done probably 25 km or more a day. Were gonna slow down. I've found a good group that keeps the same pace as me. 

We are now under 550 km to Santiago or bout that many. Still a long way to go. 

It's been an exhausting day. I'm staying in an attic of a church which is cool. People are amazing on the Camino. As it goes, the Camino provides. 

I'll update more once I'm feeling better. 

If you have questions, use the comments and I'll answer them in the next post. I know they are out there. 

Wednesday, May 14, 2014

Starting the Camino

It's weird to be back here in Spain. As I was flying it, I came to the realization that I'm not coming as a temporary resident, instead as a tourist. Regardless, it's great to be back and I'm enjoying every minute. It has taken a bit to get used to the keyboard again, but lo que sea.

I will be starting the Camino tomorrow morning, the 15th from St. Jean Pied de Pont. I've spent the last day and a half in Pamplona getting ready, i.e. sleeping more than I should and picking up random odds and ends. Unfortunately, it's extremely windy here and I didn't account for that and had to pick up a jacket.

I've met many pilgrims passing through so far and a few that will be starting in a few days as well. It's becoming more and more surreal and crazy that I will be starting tomorrow. I am definitely worried about the mountains, the Pyrennes, that I have to cross. From what I have heard, this actually becomes a two day adventure. This may be the case for me but we shall see. I'm going to let my body decide that.

I don't have much else in regards to updates or blogging, I'm just ready to go and killing time before my bus to take me to St. Jean. I don't know what the internet situation will be once I start so I don't know when I'lll update next.

Monday, May 12, 2014

Finally Done and Off

Well, after a lot of running around and trying get everything packed, I'm done.

This is what my equipment looks like:


List:

  • Four wicking shirts
  • Long Sleeve Shirt
  • Three pairs of wicking shorts
  • Three pairs of underwear
  • Three pairs of socks
  • Sandals
  • Poncho
  • Sleeping bag liner
  • Hat
  • Bandages
  • Duct Tape
  • Toiletries (not pictured)
Total weight: 25.6 pounds

I leave out today at 12:40 EST

Sunday, May 11, 2014

About the Camino and my journey

The entire time I've been preparing for El Camino de Santiago, I was against setting up a blog. I don't know if this is a result of me not wanting to set up a blog, or rather the upkeep of the blog. It seems like it may be a bit mundane to post about my trip to me. It may seem a bit repetitive; however, I have had a lot of requests to keep a blog for people to live vicariously through me. As a result, here's to starting a blog. I will preface this with saying I don't know how often I will update or what the updates will entailed. For the most part, the blog posts will be pushed through Facebook, but I will add those who asked to subscribe for my previous study abroad blog. If you don't want the updates, please let me know. Now, as I once again set this blog up as I procrastinate packing, some of you may not know that I am doing El Camino de Santiago or perhaps do not know what it is. As a result, I feel like the best way to start this is to explain what the Camino is.

El Camino de Santiago has a variety of names. The literal translation of this Spanish name is The Way of Saint James, or many people know it as "The Way", "St. James Way", and may other names. The Way is more popularly known in the United States since it is the dramatization of El Camino de Santiago featuring Martin Sheen. The video, as of 5/11/2014, is available to stream on Netflix.

- wikipedia.org


El Camino de Santiago is the name of any of the pilgrim routes to the shrine of the apostle St. James the Great (see above). Tradition states that the remains of St. James lay in the cathedral in Santiago de la Compostel which is a city in northwest Spain. This camino has occurred ever since St. James remains were laid to rest in Spain. Legend holds that St. James remains were sent from Jerusalem to Santiago via boat. As I do a bit of research to better lay the groundwork of this pilgrimage, I found a correction to my original thought. I was told that President Washington was the first "American" to complete the trail; however, that is incorrect.

"During the war of American Independence, John Adams was ordered by Congress to go to Paris to obtain funds for the cause. His ship started leaking and he disembarked with his two sons in Finisterre in 1779. From there he proceeded to follow the Way of St. James in the reverse direction of the pilgrims' route, in order to get to Paris overland. He did not stop to visit Santiago and came to regret this during the course of his journey."
        - www.wikipedia.org


As previously mentioned, El Camino de Santiago is any route that takes you to St. James' resting place. For me, that will be El Camino Frances, which is the French Route. Since there are a variety of routes to Santiago, I chose the Camino Frances for two reasons. First and foremost, it is the most popular of the trails. Secondly, I will have the opportunity to walk through various cities that I wished I could see. The Camino Frances is a total of 780km, or 500mi, from Santiago de la Compostela.

I will begin my journey in the small village of St. Jean Pied de Pont which is on the Spanish/French border. From there, I will walk towards Santiago de la Compostela and hope to arrive at the doors of the cathedral in 30 days.  Each day my goal is to walk at least 15 miles a day. That is my average mileage I hope to accomplish every day. While some days may be longer and others shorter, it will take 15 miles a day to arrive in Santiago.

- megaconstrucciones.net

After the initial shock because of the mileage covered has worn off, the first question is who I will keep company with while on the Camino.  I will be completing El Camino by myself. I do not know anyone going on the Camino with me. Many people think I am crazy to attempt this and that may be so. I have friends who are interested and for variuos reasons are unfortunately unable to make this journey with me. However, I still wanted to complete the Camino. This is one of the few times in my life that I will have the opportunity to budget time to complete this pilgrimage. In the last two years, there have been on average 185,000 people who have officially registered and completed the Camino. Therefore, I do not believe that I will be completely alone. Yes, I do not know anyone who is going with me but I imagine I will run into groups along the way.

The second question I receive when people ask about the Camino is my reasoning for completing the Camino. Yes, as a Catholic, there are religious reasons that drive my decision to complete the Camino. As a person who has studied abroad and learned Spanish for, let's see, 8 years now, I want to see northern Spain. Finally, once I heard about the Camino, it just was intriguing. I want to see what it's all about.

As I start to wrap up, I am starting to reflect on the Camino and this post. Most peligrinos, or pilgrims, after they have completed the Camino, they believe that it truly started when they decided to go on the Camino. For me, I guess I'd say my Camino started about two years ago. I truly am blessed and grateful that I get to experience this.

However, it's really hard to put the entire Camino experience into words. I think that there are two quotes that aptly describe my view of the Camino:

What we see depends mainly on what we look for
- John Lubbock

After all the research and work put into trying to figure out the Camino, you pick up a lot of insight. However, it's no different than any other experience. I'm trying to keep an open mind and go with the flow. I don't have any real expectations for it. (Or I try not to think I do) I have a rough itinerary but I plan on listening to my body. My body will be my itinerary.

Caminante no hay camino, se hace camino al andar
- A. Machado

This second quote translates as followed: "Wanderer, there is no road, the road is made by walking". This is similar to what I've previously said. I will walk and that will create the path. Yes, the path is well-marked, but  I will be fine with just walking and creating my path and my journey.

If you have any questions, please just let me know in the comments and I will respond.

Buen Camino