Saturday, September 20, 2014

Final Update with Photos and Video

Wow, it's crazy to think that its been near 3 months since I've finished. I've since moved up to Chicago to start working. But I realized that I forgot to deliver on a few items.

First and foremost, thanks to everyone who followed this blog. It means a lot to look at the statistics and see that many people followed it and were interested.

Secondly, I've procrastinated with sharing the photos and VIDEO! that I took during the trip.

So, without further adieu, you can find the pictures I deemed worthy here. I posted them on Facebook and this is just a snippet of them. I took a bunch.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10202116941302757&type=1&l=9fbfb41668

Here you can find a video montage of my trip. I put this together recently and it's a collaboration effort in a sense. A decent amount of the photos are mine, but at the same time, I borrowed a decent amount from all the people I met along the way. It's a bit long, and I may be a bit biased, but it's a great watch, even if you skim through it and jump around.

https://vimeo.com/105284281

If anyone has questions, don't hesitate to shoot them my way.

Wednesday, June 18, 2014

My Reflection on the Camino Francés

I came. I saw. I conquered. Or something like that. I arrived in Santiago on Monday, June 16. 795km later (according to my book), I have arrived. I have arrived to Santiago de Compostela exhausted both physically and mental, along with some bumps, bruises, and sprains but regardless, I have arrived unbroken.

Like I said, according to the book, I started this incredible journey 795km (492.9mi) ago while the Compostela says 775km  (480.5mi) ago and then my friend Nilanj used his GPS tracking app to measure distance that came out to 896.07km (555.5mi). Now these distances vary due to the distances between albergues, going off the path for a different one or a coffee, etc. Regardless of the "number", I know how far I have walked these last 33 days. My boots look like they could fall apart, my pack is no longer heavy, nor does it look new. The distance really doesnt matter, all that matters is that I am here in Santiago, sitting at a cafe outside of the cathedral relaxing.

I've made a great number of friends throughout this trip. I have had incredible experiences with these friends. From sharing meals, to the pains of walking 30km (18.3mi) a day, to the joys of arriving. I've also lost things such as my poles, my watch, and contact with friends since we all walk at our own pace to our own schedule. Throughout all of this, it has been truly an incredible and amazing experience.

It's crazy to think that it's been 33 days since I started (really 35 now). It seems so long ago when I think about it. Maybe that's because of the distance travelled. Or perhaps due to the struggles that came peppered throughout the trek. Possibly it's due to the fact that when you run into someone along the way, you may not have seen them for two or three weeks since you both went off "schedule". As often as it happens, I think that is the reminder of the time.

But I can't say it's seemed long.  The days, the villages, and towns all tend to blur together. At times, I couldn't tell you the day of the week, what the date was, or where I slept two days ago. That doesn't take away from any of those days. A picture, the name of the town or the person I met can and will jog my memory.

I arrived to Santiago with an easy 5km (3.1mi) hike relatively downhill and through suburban Santiago. It was definitely nice. The day before we pushed 40km (24.8mi) to be able to do this. There I saw my first glimpse of Santiago. It was a relief. As we got closer, it wasn't until we were probably 20 minutes away when you could see the cathedral which is impressive even though the front (arguably the most impressive) facade is under renovation.

My friends and I went to get our Compostela which signifies that you have completed the Camino de Santiago and a certificate that stated that we walked from St Jean Pied de Port and a total of 775km. Finally we went to the monastery of St Francis of Assisi. This was founded 800 years ago when St. Francis himself made his pilgrimage to Santiago. They were giving out a certificate to commemorate this. Finally, we took a few laps of the cathedral before we attended the pilgrims mass.

The mass was very nice. It was done in Spanish and there were pilgrims that we had seen throughout the trip. It was a wonderful service in a beautiful cathedral.

Sitting here and arriving brings interesting thoughts. Primarily, it feels anticlimactic. What's next? Don't get me wrong, it's amazing here and I'm enjoying every minute of it. It's been great just sitting in plazas relaxing and watching other groups come in and see the joy and happiness that comes with the arrival. Yet, we are all thinking, what next? I guess that comes with the territory of a daily routine for 33 days that didn't change without fail. Wake up, walk, eat a bit, walk, get a drink, walk, eat and drink, sleep, repeat. But I think that is the journey and the part that was enjoyable and fun. It was great to do that daily routine with my new friends. It was great to have the alone time while walking for contemplation and reflection. The end of every journey tends to be anticlimactic and you wonder whats next. I think it's a very fitting way to end this type of trek. You spend a month or so walking towards this goal; and by the time you get there, you don't know what to expect. But, the philosophy I came into this fits the end I believe.

Caminante, no hay camino, se hace el camino andar. Walker, there is no path you make the path walking. Thats what the end of the Camino is. Its up to you to make that path at the end.

I do not regret this trip in the least bit. I learned a lot about myself, others, and in general. It truly been a unbelievable experience. No matter how many times I say that, it won't do it just. The people I've met and talked to are simply awesome in their own way. Everyone has something to give and something to gain while on the Camino.

If anyone reading this or anyone you know has an itch for an adventure, a challenge, or a journey I recommend this wholeheartedly. This provides a break from society and offers both physical, mental, and emotional challenges. However, I think anyone is capable of doing this. While it is a feat, anyone can do it if they put their mind to it. I would be lying if I said there werent times where I thought I wouldn't make it. We all have had these while on the Camino but we rely on our friends who we've met support, the support from home, and the support of whatever you believe in. So I reiterate my recommendation and my sentiment that anyone can do this.

I want to take the time to thank all those who have supported me through this and kept me in their thoughts and prayers. Some days those were needed more than others and in any case I appreciate it.

I will have probably 2-3 more posts left in this thing. Two of those will hopefully be multimedia posts updating people with photos from my trip. The next post will be a "Q&A" with a best/worse type of deal of things on the Camino as well as any questions in general. So, if you have any questions or suggestions shoot them my way via email, Facebook, or the comments section. Help me out with the recap cause I know people have questions.

To anyone stumbling upon this who is doing the Camino or will do the Camino, let me be the first to say, "Buen Camino".

Or as it was said in the old times, "ultreia et suseia".

Monday, June 16, 2014

The final days

Thurs, 6/12
Start: Barbadelo
End: Portomarin
Distance: 20.07 km

Fri, 6/13
Start: Portomarin
End: Palas de Rei
Distance: 27.07 km

Sat, 6/14
Start: Palas de Rei
End: Arzua
Distance: 32.44km

Sun, 6/15
Start: Arzua
End: Monte de Gozo
Distance: 38.89 km

Not much has happened in the last four days. We have been in double digits with the distance for the last 4 days. It's crazy to think that we are so close. 

It's getting closer and closer which brings mixed emotions. First and foremost, it's exciting. After walking 785km, or just short of 500 miles, it's exciting to be here. We are in Monte de Gozo and I can see the outskirts of Santiago. It's incredible to see it and to think how far we have come. It's something I believe everyone is capable of doing but actually doing it is incredible. The excitement can be seen throughout. No longer are stops at cafes just rests, but everyone is always cheery regardless of time, taking photos with friends and just enjoying themselves. At times, this was difficult to do before now. I'm also happy I'm almost done, my body more so. I'm aching, tired, and sore. But I'm not broken and able to walk every day. To me, that's a good day on the Camino. It's impossible not to have pains on this journey. I'm happy because we're done and for the same reasons I'm excited. Its a bit nervewracking as well. How will Santiago be? How will I truly feel when I'm standing in front of the cathedral? At the pilgrim mass? As I get my compostela? It's a range of emotions and definitely an unknown. Finally, it's sad. Ive met a ton of amazing people who were great for a conversation, for advice, encouragement, inspiration, or simply a good time. Often these categories overlap. It's sad to end something that has been a daily routine for the last month. 

To wrap up, it's definitely interesting here in the closing stretch. Grabbing contact info, capturing friendships and memories, trying to gather the energy to make that final push, whatever you want to say there; regardless my journey will end tomorrow. 

I will not be continuing on by foot to Finisterre, the Camino Finisterre, and the end of the world. I came  to complete the Camino de Santiago which I shall do tomorrow. Unfortunately, I cant put more stress on the body and therefore I will meet my friends go on via bus in three days time. It's crazy to think I'll be taking a bus, or any vehicle really, to travel. It will take me no time at all to travel 90km where in the last month that could take me up to 4 days. 

I currently don't have wifi, but hope to post this before I arrive in Santiago. Regardless, I will be posting my thoughts and events that occur in Santiago upon my arrival. I am going to take a day to reflect on my arrival and post my thoughts on Tuesday or Wednesday. On Thursday, I go to Finisterre and then Friday to Barcelona for a long needed and deserved break to be a true tourist. During that time, I plan to write a recap/review/thoughts on my entire Camino experience. 

Finally, I know a few who follow this blog don't have access to my social media profiles where some photos are and will be. Don't worry, I hope to have all of the photos reviewed, edited, and hosted within a week of my return to the States and will host these on social media as well as a photo sharing site so everyone can view them. 

Well, I'm off to bed to recover, relax, and prepare for my arrival to Santiago which will be a simple 5km, 3.1 miles, "walk in the park" tomorrow morning.

Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Last two days

Sorry for the long breaks in the posts. Part of the issue is wifi (or lack of) and then secondly at times its just too late to do so

Mon, 6/9
Start: Cacabelos
End: Las Herrerias
Distance: 33.08 km

Amazing. Pastries. 
On our way in, we stopped at a homemade pastry shop. I asked what sweets they had and they brought out two fresh cakes, an apple pound cake and chocolate cake. Obviously I had to get both. I had the apple pound cake then saved the chocolate one for later.

Tues, 6/10
Start: Las Herrerias
End: Triacastela
Distance: 36km

1. Climbing and Descending
We climbed approximately 1250 meters up to start the day over 5-10km. That's around 3750 feet up over 3-6 miles. Definitely rough and brought back memories of Roncesvalles which was the first day. Equally as tough and honestly probably worse was the descent. We ended the day at a similar elevation as the start. We climbed straight up then straight down. No me gusta.

2. My chocolate cake
Remember cake I was saving for a reward and the end of the day? Well I forgot about it until midway through the steep climb up in the morning. Ergo, I had a wonderful chocolate cake for breakfast. 

3. The top!
When you climb that high, you get great views. It was incredible. Pictures will be up hopefully in a week or so... No promises

4. O cebriero church
It had a very nice church at the top which was the birthplace of the priest who revitalized the Camino and is responsible for the yellow arrows pilgrims see today and follow religiously. 

5. Finding everyone
Once into our final destination and looking for food, we ran into people that we hadn't seen in a few days and sat for a wonderful dinner. As we get closer to Santiago, the likelihood of no longer running into people increases.

5. Semanagrinos
We have ran into the pilgrims who start at or around the 100km mark since it takes a week (hence semana which is week and grinos from peregrinos). It shall be interesting to see the interactions with these people. We had one this evening but I am going to reserve judgement on these pilgrims until I encounter more. 

Wed, 6/11
Start: Triacastela
End: Belorado
Distance: 26 km

1. Relatively easy day today. We took our time in and passed where all the new people will start. 

2. It was the hottest day so far. Probably around 85 or so. It definitely felt hotter under the sun and walking around. It's only supposed to get hotter. 

3. 108km away. That puts us in Santiago either Sunday or Monday. Really crazy to think about.

Monday, June 9, 2014

Last two days

Sat, 6/7
Start: Foncebadon
End: Molinaseca
Distance: 23.04 km

1. The Cruz Ferro
Today we reached the highest point of the Camino. While the one of the most iconic parts of the Camino, the Cruz Ferro, isn't actually the highest point of the Camino, it's still a cool spot. The actual highest point is approximately 1km later. Anywho, this is where you drop off your stone, rock or personal item you've been carrying which symbolizes the burdens you have been carrying while on the Camino. It's definitely a nice and interesting stop. We were only 2k away in the morning so it was a relatively quiet site since people hadnt got there yet due to the climb.

2. The last Templar
A little later, we ran into an recently new village. This village had been deserted for the last few years (appx 20 years). However, Tomás decided to change that and become a Templar who had the job to protect, house, and help pilgrims traveling to and from Jerusalem, Rome, and Santiago among other things. So Tomás brought the village back to "life" and now has a population of 1. He runs a donation based hospital. This hospital allows pilgrims shelter, food, and hospitality.

3. Downhill struggle
We went up 591 meters the day before and now it was straight down. It was rough and awful. My legs didn't like it. We went 600 down and on all rocks and slate. It was no fun.

4. Change of plans
Due to pure downhill struggle and our bodies not agreeing with it, we called it quits early which was good and worked out because...

5. Connections
Nilaj knew someone in Ponferrada but she was out of town. Instead, she asked her friend to show him around and take care of him. It was a lot of fun to hang out with a local of the town that we were in.

Sun, 6/8
Start: Molinaseca
End: Cacabelos
Distance: 28.17 km

1. Churros con chocolate
First time I've had churros con chocolate since my return to Spain. They weren't bad but brought up fond memories of my time in Sevilla

2. Castle
There was a Templar Castle in Ponferada which has passed through several hands throughout the years and then has been renovated now. It had cool history part in the beginning and then was just nice to walk around the castle. It added a bit of distance but wasnt too bad.

2a. The last Templar
Tomás was outside the castle. Pretty cool in my opinion.

3. Daily grind to the max
Since we stopped, which I was happy doing, we had only walked 7k by 1pm. With the entire rest of the 11k being after 1pm and the fact that it was on concrete made it difficult to continue. It was a mental grind then as a result became a physical challenge but we finally got there as we sluggishly arrived.

Saturday, June 7, 2014

Update

Thurs, 6/4
Start: Villar de Marazife
End: Astroga
Distance: 36.31 km

1. Long, long day
It's been a while since I've done a 35+ km day and I remember why. It was definitely a long day, struggling to get in. We were coming into Astorga, one of the larger cities on the Camino, and as a result, had to go through industrial, suburban areas (which you know my opinion on, but I'll remind you, AWFUL). Anyway, it was just a struggle at the end. My legs hurt, my feet hurt, my ankles and knees hurt all the while the cathedral which was next to the place to stay wasn't getting closer. Then disaster hit. 

2. Almost no where to stay
Since it's a big town, Astroga as I am told is a place where a lot of people will start their Camino, approximately 250km from Santiago. In addition, the Camino Frances joins with the Via de la Plata (another Camino starting from Sevilla and ending in Santiago). So, for obvious reasons there are more people. Our luck would have it that a school group of 50 was staying in the 90 bed private albergue. Therefore, the city was essentially booked and full by the time we got there. Luckily, as my friends Greg, Art and I were trying to make it there, our friends Nilaj and David were faster into the city and snagged us potentially the last spots in the city, a spot on the ground in the local convent. Now, they brought us mattresses and blankets so we weren't truly on the ground but regardless, I slept amazingly and was grateful not to have to walk further. And I got a new walking stick for free! The Camino provides

3. Nice cathedral
In a town of 10,000 they had a very nice and impressive cathedral. While it lacked the ornate stained glass, the sheer size made up for it. It was like any other cathedral but in a small town. Next to it was a house built by famous architect Antoni Gaudi, who is known for his work in Barcelona. It was no way near the sophisticated or eccentric works in Barcelona, rather tastefully done and complemented the cathedral nicely

4. Remaining distance
We were around the 250 mark left which means we are close to the 3/4 point and like someone said, we have a lot less to do than what has been done so far. 

5. Good pinchos
I had dinner with Greg, Art, David and Nilaj. While the majority chose to go with the preset peregrino meal, or the menu of the day, Nilaj and I chose the pinchos route. Even though the menu meal looked good, the pinchos were better. It was some pork in a good sauce then cheese and fruit. Not very descriptive I know but you'll have to trust me. 

I also learned a cool "magic" trick that involves two corks. Greg has been teaching everyone on the Camino.

Friday, 6/6
Start: Astorga
End: Foncebadon
Distance: 29.33 km

1. All up hill
We climbed 591 meters which is close to 2000 feet. It was definitely not easy, but wasnt as hard as I expected. Maybe the Pyrenees helped? Anyway, it was a slow uphill climb that didnt really get steep til the last 4k or so... Convenient. You could definitely tell with the air and how thin it was.

2. Beautiful change of scenery
Since we were climbing, we were going through the mountains. I'll argue that they weren't as nice as the Pyrenees but some disagree. Either way, it was a nice change of pace from the Meseta. It was a rough stretch of nothing changing at all in the barren Meseta. Now were going up and down mountains. 

3. Mishap again with beds
So we were told to start reserve places and we did to prevent a repeat of Astorga. We get there and there's only 2 spots left... The guy accidentally put our reservation for the day before. However, they were kind enough to find a way to accommodate us since it was their fault. 

4. Great food
This time I went for the pilgrim meal, menu of the day, and it was delicious. Lentil soup, beef in a hearty sauce and then rice pudding. It was delicious and just what I needed. For clarification, the emphasis on good is well deserved. I don't know if I said it, but these menu deals can be rather hit or miss and we've been on the miss side for the most part

5. So many people
I don't know if it's cause of people starting in Astorga, the Via de la Plata, or we are fast but it's seemed to double in the number of people on the Camino which I currently sit undecided on whether it's a good thing or not.

Friday, June 6, 2014

Two days ago

Tues, 6/2
Start: Leon
End: Leon
Distance: 6.37 km

1. Sleeping in

Since we stayed in a private hostal which was a room with three beds, we got the luxury of good night sleep with no snoring (seriously, some people can be impressive) and didn't have to leave until 12. So we slept in til 830! Then lounged around until we had to leave and went to an albergue

2. Lounging around Leon basically consisted of moving from plaza to plaza just relaxing, eating some pinchos, having a drink or two, and just relaxing with other pilgrims in Leon. Pilgrims are pretty easy to spot due to their physical ailments which affect how they move as well as their physical apparel. It's kind of funny really. 

3. Overall impression of Leon

Since we took the day off, it really allowed us to enjoy Leon. Personally, it has been my favorite city so far. I don't really know why I liked it more than Burgos or Pamplona, but I do. Maybe it's the layout, the people, or perhaps the timing. 

4. While I enjoyed the day off and it was much needed, it definitely felt unusual not walking to a new place. As a result, we've ran into a bunch of new people and old friends have caught up. My body is happy that I took the day off. It definitely feels better but at the same time, not a 100%. I think it was necessary to let my body relax a day, yet it will still have it's aches and pains every day til I'm done.

Wed, 6/3
Start: Leon
End: Villar de Mazarife
Distance: 26.41 km

1. Poco a poco

We are getting there. Little by little. I remember hearing Chambao's song before I left to study abroad and basically it translates to little by little. That's how you have to approach it. It's literally just putting one foot in front of the other and taking it a step at a time.

Which brings me to my next point

1a. 

It's interesting to see the change between end locations for the day. This change is with pretty much everyone. It's no longer, I need to get to Astorga, for example. It has changed, especially when asked to the typical response, "whenever I can't walk anymore and my legs give out". While the general intenerary everyone has is still important, most have came to the realization that our body's are the timeline/stopwatch. We now go as far as our body will take us and hope it's the stop on our itenerary

2. Relaxing walk 

It was an easy day where it was short and seemed to go by quick. I didn't hurt and was feeling good. I guess the rest day helped

3. Getting lost

We took a wrong turn. The signs were misleading. Regardless, we were put on the scenic route which added to our distance tomorrow but didn't really hurt us nor was an issue. It worked out though. We ran into people that we hadn't seen in a long time (a few days, but that is actually a long time here) and were able to catch up with them. Often times, when you pass someone or take a rest day, it is highly possible that you won't see them again. That's why it's awesome to run into people again. While it made the next day longer, it was worth it in the long run (and wasn't against a highway). 

Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Tues, 6/2
Start: Leon
End: Leon
Distance: 6.37 km

1. Sleeping in

Since we stayed in a private hostal which was a room with three beds, we got the luxury of good night sleep with no snoring (seriously, some people can be impressive) and didn't have to leave until 12. So we slept in til 830! Then lounged around until we had to leave and went to an albergue

2. Lounging around Leon basically consisted of moving from plaza to plaza just relaxing, eating some pinchos, having a drink or two, and just relaxing with other pilgrims in Leon. Pilgrims are pretty easy to spot due to their physical ailments which affect how they move as well as their physical apparel. It's kind of funny really. 

3. Overall impression of Leon

Since we took the day off, it really allowed us to enjoy Leon. Personally, it has been my favorite city so far. I don't really know why I liked it more than Burgos or Pamplona, but I do. Maybe it's the layout, the people, or perhaps the timing. 

4. While I enjoyed the day off and it was much needed, it definitely felt unusual not walking to a new place. As a result, we've ran into a bunch of new people and old friends have caught up. My body is happy that I took the day off. It definitely feels better but at the same time, not a 100%. I think it was necessary to let my body relax a day, yet it will still have it's aches and pains every day til I'm done

Tuesday, June 3, 2014

Day 18? They're blurring together

6/2
Start: Mansilla de las Mulas
End: Leon
Distance: 23.44 km

1. Blister lady and German dude

The lady at the last municipal was the blister lady. She took care of my blisters without question, told me that they shouldn't be an issue, and how to know when to pop them. The German in the albergue was able to show me a better way to wrap my ankle. It seemed to help and showed me some things to prevent blisters on my toes. Both of them scolded me for the duct tape use since it's for construction and not for the body, but it worked...

2. Short day, all on pavement

Walking on pavement is awful. It was only 23 km into Leon but it was on all pavement along the road. It was no fun. It hurts the feet, there's typically nothing to see, and typically I don't like walking along the road but hey that's just me. This leads to my next point

3. Walking into big cities

It is awful. You are walking along the road on pavement which after walking so far, it hurts. There's no give. More importantly, I have two main reasons for my dislike of walking into a city. 

3a. Typically, when you see a city, town, village it's with 5k, or 3.1 miles. That's doable and can help push into where you're going to stop for a break or the day. However, in a big city that 5k is probably to the suburb. You have at least 2k until you hit the city then you have to find the place to stop. Therefore, you're looking at more like 7k+ which is a killer

3b. You walk through suburb and the industrial areas of the city. For example, we walked through car dealerships and mechanic shops for a good 3k yesterday. Not fun.

4. Pizza and everything we needed

We have been craving pizza and ice cream for a while now. We were able to find both of these pretty quickly. The first pizza, yes I said first pizza, was mediocre at best in quality but it was incredible due to desire and need for food. We found a nice private hostal that would allow us to sleep in and not be with 70-100 others. Then, ice cream happened as my friend Nilaj went looking for new shoes since he was walking soleless. Overall, it's started out as a good rest day. I'd imagine that yesterday was the most food and calories I've consumed all trip. 

5. Leon is cool so far

We walked around a bit last night, probably more than we should have, and got to see some of the city. It's pretty cool in my opinion. Id say it's my favorite out of Pamplona and Burgos so far. Granted I've not seen much but still see the point above. It reminds me a lot of Sevilla and is a stereotypical Spanish city especially when it comes to the old town. I'll have a better write up tonight. 

For those of you following this blog, I don't always post via social media that it's updated but it typically gets a post daily depending on whether the place has wifi.

Sunday, June 1, 2014

The Last Three Days (for real)

I feel the need to clarify and explain myself about the busegrinos. For those of you unaware what a busegrino is, look back at previous posts. For me, there's a difference between a bus tour and a pilgrim taking a bus. The bus tour where you go town to town bothers me. However, there are pilgrims who bus or take a taxi for part of the Camino. This may be for physical reasons, such as injury, fatigue, or inability to walk the entire way, or simply it's a matter of time. Everyone gets to Santiago in their own time and manner. Therefore, I see no problems with using a vehicle to get to another town. But to bus the entire way in a "tour" package is what troubles me. 

Anywho, back to the thoughts

5/30
Start: Corríon de las Condes
End: Ledigos
Distance: 26.04 km

1. 17km start

Were in the Meseta which is nothing. So, we have the luxury to walk 17 km to the next town. Imagine Kansas, or a flat wheat field, and then walk straight with that to your right and left. Do that for 17 km, or approximately 11 miles, with no houses, food, water, or anything. I'd probably pass someone every 45 minutes, or theyd pass me. There was no shade or benches. It was definitely a mental challenge.

2. Pack weight

Since there were no stops, you had to carry enough water and food for emergencies. It's crazy how much weight some peanuts, two bananas and some meat can add. I've grown accustomed to the weight but the addition of the food was surprising cause I could feel it. 

3. The race for beds

Sometimes it feels like you're racing for a bed each day which is annoying. Some days you have to worry about not have a place to stay and keep walking. So far, we've been close but not actually been without a bed

4. Midpoint

We got to the mileage halfway point. It's crazy to think that we are halfway and it's been 390 km.

5/31
Start: Ledigos
End: Bercianos del Real Camino
Distance: 29 km

1.  Ran into Art and Greg

They are retired friends from Columbus, Ohio who we ran into about a week ago. They had some leg issues and needed to bus ahead to stay on schedule. It was great to run into them and catch up. I had dinner with them both and they are a wealth of knowledge. 

2. Relatively easy day

It was still difficult but on the easier side. 

3. Feet in bad shape

You'll just have to see the photo. My feet dont look good. They've got blisters and my ankle isn't ideal. But I can walk and I am doing fine. I guess that's the price you pay or walking 390km

4. Geographical midpoint

Today was the geographical midpoint which I don't know what the difference between the geographical midpoint and the mileage midpoint. Anyway, were halfway.

Midpoint reflection

It's hard to think it's halfway. I don't know how to put it in words. I'm glad it's halfway. Were almost done. It's promising. Yet, it's still 390km away. Kinda daunting. We've got mountains to climb still. It will still be challenging. While my routine is now the norm, I can't say that it's getting easier. It's still a challenge every day. Some days mentally, others physically. Regardless, I'm happy I'm doing this. I expect to finish, both God and body willing. It can and will be done. I'm on schedule which is good and a bit surprising. 

6/1
Start: Bercianos del Real Camino
End: Mansilla de las Mulas
Distance:  29km

1. It was 13 km into a vast walk of nothing between towns. Before that, it was 7 km. Not very fun or exciting but hey what can you do. 

2. My feet are worse. That is all

3. We go into Leon tomorrow and will have a rest day the following day. It will be needed on all levels

Thursday, May 29, 2014

Day 15

5/27
Start: Itergo de Vega
End: Corríon de Condes
Distance: 37.5 km

1. Coming together

It's awesome to see the camaraderie after a long day of walking. Everyones in a cheerful mood lounging around, doing laundry or cooking and eating. No ones a stranger here and everyone is welcome to our space, food, wine, and company. Language doesn't matter. 

2. Seeing the new and the old

Since you get place to place via your feet or bike, it's very easy to meet new people, either a slower or faster pace, and seeing the same people. We've pushed ahead and lost a few daily people and others have done the same with us. 

It's great to see new people and spice it up a bit. However, at the same time it's great to see people you expected not to see again.

3. Meal in Hontanas

Speaking of that, I dont remember if I talked about it, but the meal two nights ago was awesome. Great food and great company. It was us 3 Americans and 3 Brazilians. It was a mix of Spanish, Italian, and Portuguese that was spoken.

But, since we went slower yesterday I wasn't sure if we would see them again but sure enough we ran into them today.

4. No camera 

I've not used it while walking the last two days and it's been a blessing and a curse. I've missed out on cool photos but still I've enjoyed not taking them.

5. 37.5 km....

At least 4660 calories were burned. Absolutely ridiculous. I do not want to walk that much again. It was easier than the 40 km but still difficult especially with an upset stomach. But I'm here I'm able and feeling good. That's all that matters

6. New blisters

Ive got four, not ideal but they're not painful yet. We will see what they look like in the morning and deal with them accordingly.

7. Duct tape

If it can fix the space station, it'll work on the Camino. I've got tape all over my boots right now and a friend is using it as prevention for blisters. Duct tape does wonders

Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Days 12 and 13 Thoughts

5/26
Start: Burgos
End: Hontanas
Distance: 39.5 km

1. The best night of sleep ever.

It was amazing. I slept so well and was well rested. It was the best night of sleep since I've been in Spain. Good thing too since we walked 39.5km....

2. Favoritism to donativos

I've now stayed in a donativo twice. It runs on volunteers and donations from the peregrinos there. They are typically attached to a church or parish. At both, a mass was before a communal dinner. It was just an overall great experience. There are typically few people who go to these and therefore you actually get to know one another and it's more personal.

3. 39km damn near 40km

That's 24.5 miles for you Americans. The longest I've ever walked in a day and the most I ever want to. It was rough but I got through it. That's all that matters. 

4. Revelations come out of no where, shocking I know.

5. Everyone is on the Camino for different reasons. 

5/27
Start: Hontanas
End: Itergo de Vega
Distance: 25.74 km

1. Rain sucks. We walked all day in the rain. It was not fun. It was a consistent rain and as we climbed a "mountain" it was a downpour. Hopefully the rain will hold. It sucks. Ominous clouds are awful especially when you can't out walk it.... 

2. La Meseta is what we are walking through right now. It's basically relatively flat with wheat fields and that's all you can see. Maybe a few windmills but that's it. So, it's hit or miss on how nice of a walk it is. 

3. The views. 

As I said above, it's hit or miss but today as we came down the mountain, it was great as was looking back at the villages we left. 

4. Monastery with the locos. 

We were struggling this morning in the rain and were gonna stop at a monastery which was built and used in the 1500s. Now it's a volunteer ran donativo albergue. As I was walking up to it, a massive tour bus flew by and let out people. They were going crazy, getting photos, running around, and getting a sello, or stamp saying they were there. They were there for no more than 5 minutes. It was hectic. But the hospitalera, the volunteer, came running over and was inviting to us, shooing away some of the other people, asking where we are from, where we came from today, where we were going and what she could do to help us. It helped take away from the craziness.

As she pored us coffee, some of the buserinos as we called them asked for coffee as well. She told them off saying it was not a bar, but the coffee was for peregrinos and not tourists. Her goal was to keep the peregrinos welcomed, happy, and unperturbed. It was so welcoming. I don't know how many people took my picture, but it had to be a bunch. 

I don't really know why, but I was a little upset, hmm I don't know if that's the right word. Maybe rubbed me the wrong way. I dont know. Eh, it was just ... I don't know how to put it into words. It was disappointing to see, frustrating to deal with, and just I guess wrong? A "tourist" was walking around and saw a shower and toilet and was confused. I guess that's the best way to put it. They didn't realize that to us peregrinos, it was shelter from the storm; it was a place to recoup; it is a place to sleep at night; and most importantly, the volunteers and peregrinos within help push us forward to the next town. Either way, the volunteers were immensely helpful. 

5. El Patio is a bar in Castrojeriz, one of the small towns we walked through. We met the owner in Pamplona and she told us to stop by. So we did.  

Monday, May 26, 2014

Atapuerca to Burgos

5/26
Start: Atapuerca
End: Burgos
Distance: 21.03km

1. Some days are just rough. Physically I feel fine, mentally not so much. I'm not feeling so hot. I don't think I'm sick but it's just one of those days you just want to lay around and do nothing for me. Luckily it's an easier day. 

2. The first week is the physical challenge, the second week is the mental challenge. I feel like I have my Camino legs. The distance doesn't bother my body, but towards the end of the day, it gets rough

3. Some lady helped me. She saw me sit down to rest and started talking to me. I guess I was about a kilometer away and she was encouraging me to keep going. She went out of her way and walked me there. Unfortunately, she was leading me to the wrong albergue and we both finally found it and had a good laugh about it. The extra 2 km was nothing to worry about. It was fun talking to her and she helped me get through the last km

4. Burgos cathedral. Saw it today. It was massive. El Cid is buried there too. It was cool to see. I've got pictures which will go up when I'm in the States but it's similar to any other large cathedral. It was nice to see but it makes the day different because we went to see Burgos instead of chilling around which may show tomorrow

Sunday, May 25, 2014

I've decided to do thoughts of the day and possibly a brief write up on the hike itself. Unfortunately, I was going to do this yesterday, 5/24, but as I went to copy it into an email, I lost all my notes. So it'll be a combination of yesterday and today. 

5/24
Start: Grañon
End: Villafranca Montes de Oca
Distance: 31.5km

5/25
Start: Villafranca Montes de Oca
End: Atapureca
Distance: 20.65km

Today was the shortest day but  difficult. It was 12km of forested trail through the mountains. Nothing changed at all which made it rough. Trees on trees on trees. But, my body needed it and it'll be a "shorter" day tomorrow to Burgos as well. We are currently a half day ahead of my schedule so that's good but will be level tomorrow. 

1. Donativo

So two nights ago, we stayed in a donativo which means you pay as much as you want. Leave what you can, take what you need was the philosophy. We were on mats in the attic of the church. It was a cool experience. 

Dinner was a communal meal. It was a nice, but simple meal. The interesting part of the meal was that it was all paid for by the pilgrims the night before. Our donations paid for the next night. There were two volunteers who ran the hospital, which stands for hospitality. It's been around for centuries and it is all about being hospitable and hence the pay as much as you want and the volunteers on two week rotations. 

2. Mass

There was a mass before dinner at the donativo. It was really nice and very spiritual. There was a special blessing for the pilgrims at the end. 

3. The people

They are so nice. I've yet to have a bad conversation. 

3a. The villagers

The hospitality they show is incredible. We go through towns with less than 30 and there are more pilgrims who pass through and/or stay at the village than actual villagers. Yet, they always say hello, "buen camino", or just stop for a conversation. I've had Spaniards stop what they're doing and just talk to me. It's so helpful and awesome. 

3b. Peregrinos

At the end of the day, it's basically just walking a bunch, eating a bunch, then not sleeping enough. However, the people you meet help make the day. Having a conversation while walking helps pass the time and I've found them to be quiet entertaining. I've met a wide array of people and had great conversations. Everyone is welcoming and looking to relax. Dinner time is just lounging around and talking and getting to know other peregrinos. 

4. The small things

People talking to you make a huge difference. It can push you to the top of the hill. A buen Camino can get you through a city. I've had a villager walk with me for a kilometer, the opposite direction, just talking to me and helping me get through the town.

The sun today just helped us get through the forest. 

You here it all the time but it truly shows that a small act of kindness can go really far. 

5. The body and walking

It can be a struggle to walk upwards of 25k a day. Today was our shortest day which was 17k after doing 30k for the last four days. It can take a toll but it's a part of the Camino.

Today was 12k of the same thing, a forest. It was awful. 

6. "The day is the same, but the path is different"

My friend has been saying that. It's true. Every day consists of getting up, walking, eating, walking more, eating a bit more, some wine then bed. Each day it's walking from one town to the other. 

But the path is different since you are different (physically, mentally, and/or spiritually), the people you meet are different, and the place you're going is different.

This may be because of peoples moods, aches and pains, or a variety of options but the fact remains, everyday is different. 

7. I found Cruzcampo! Finally! Por dios everyone has some Cruzcampo something or other but never sells it... It was the sentimental value of remembering Sevilla which made it even better after a long walk. 

Friday, May 23, 2014

So I figured out the issue and a work around. Long story short, Google and Apple aren't cooperating. So doing this via email. I hope to update with thoughts daily. 

Anywho, to catch up, I guess today was, what, day 9 on the trail. It's difficult to keep track of the days and the schedule. 

First day was difficult. The best way to describe it is hell. It was pure hell. It was 27km (sorry find a metric calculator to convert) up over the Prynnees and back down. It took 10 hour and was the most difficult thing I've ever done physically or mentally.

Day two was 29 km to the next city which was equally difficult on a sprained ankle. 

On average, we have done probably 25 km or more a day. Were gonna slow down. I've found a good group that keeps the same pace as me. 

We are now under 550 km to Santiago or bout that many. Still a long way to go. 

It's been an exhausting day. I'm staying in an attic of a church which is cool. People are amazing on the Camino. As it goes, the Camino provides. 

I'll update more once I'm feeling better. 

If you have questions, use the comments and I'll answer them in the next post. I know they are out there. 

Wednesday, May 14, 2014

Starting the Camino

It's weird to be back here in Spain. As I was flying it, I came to the realization that I'm not coming as a temporary resident, instead as a tourist. Regardless, it's great to be back and I'm enjoying every minute. It has taken a bit to get used to the keyboard again, but lo que sea.

I will be starting the Camino tomorrow morning, the 15th from St. Jean Pied de Pont. I've spent the last day and a half in Pamplona getting ready, i.e. sleeping more than I should and picking up random odds and ends. Unfortunately, it's extremely windy here and I didn't account for that and had to pick up a jacket.

I've met many pilgrims passing through so far and a few that will be starting in a few days as well. It's becoming more and more surreal and crazy that I will be starting tomorrow. I am definitely worried about the mountains, the Pyrennes, that I have to cross. From what I have heard, this actually becomes a two day adventure. This may be the case for me but we shall see. I'm going to let my body decide that.

I don't have much else in regards to updates or blogging, I'm just ready to go and killing time before my bus to take me to St. Jean. I don't know what the internet situation will be once I start so I don't know when I'lll update next.

Monday, May 12, 2014

Finally Done and Off

Well, after a lot of running around and trying get everything packed, I'm done.

This is what my equipment looks like:


List:

  • Four wicking shirts
  • Long Sleeve Shirt
  • Three pairs of wicking shorts
  • Three pairs of underwear
  • Three pairs of socks
  • Sandals
  • Poncho
  • Sleeping bag liner
  • Hat
  • Bandages
  • Duct Tape
  • Toiletries (not pictured)
Total weight: 25.6 pounds

I leave out today at 12:40 EST

Sunday, May 11, 2014

About the Camino and my journey

The entire time I've been preparing for El Camino de Santiago, I was against setting up a blog. I don't know if this is a result of me not wanting to set up a blog, or rather the upkeep of the blog. It seems like it may be a bit mundane to post about my trip to me. It may seem a bit repetitive; however, I have had a lot of requests to keep a blog for people to live vicariously through me. As a result, here's to starting a blog. I will preface this with saying I don't know how often I will update or what the updates will entailed. For the most part, the blog posts will be pushed through Facebook, but I will add those who asked to subscribe for my previous study abroad blog. If you don't want the updates, please let me know. Now, as I once again set this blog up as I procrastinate packing, some of you may not know that I am doing El Camino de Santiago or perhaps do not know what it is. As a result, I feel like the best way to start this is to explain what the Camino is.

El Camino de Santiago has a variety of names. The literal translation of this Spanish name is The Way of Saint James, or many people know it as "The Way", "St. James Way", and may other names. The Way is more popularly known in the United States since it is the dramatization of El Camino de Santiago featuring Martin Sheen. The video, as of 5/11/2014, is available to stream on Netflix.

- wikipedia.org


El Camino de Santiago is the name of any of the pilgrim routes to the shrine of the apostle St. James the Great (see above). Tradition states that the remains of St. James lay in the cathedral in Santiago de la Compostel which is a city in northwest Spain. This camino has occurred ever since St. James remains were laid to rest in Spain. Legend holds that St. James remains were sent from Jerusalem to Santiago via boat. As I do a bit of research to better lay the groundwork of this pilgrimage, I found a correction to my original thought. I was told that President Washington was the first "American" to complete the trail; however, that is incorrect.

"During the war of American Independence, John Adams was ordered by Congress to go to Paris to obtain funds for the cause. His ship started leaking and he disembarked with his two sons in Finisterre in 1779. From there he proceeded to follow the Way of St. James in the reverse direction of the pilgrims' route, in order to get to Paris overland. He did not stop to visit Santiago and came to regret this during the course of his journey."
        - www.wikipedia.org


As previously mentioned, El Camino de Santiago is any route that takes you to St. James' resting place. For me, that will be El Camino Frances, which is the French Route. Since there are a variety of routes to Santiago, I chose the Camino Frances for two reasons. First and foremost, it is the most popular of the trails. Secondly, I will have the opportunity to walk through various cities that I wished I could see. The Camino Frances is a total of 780km, or 500mi, from Santiago de la Compostela.

I will begin my journey in the small village of St. Jean Pied de Pont which is on the Spanish/French border. From there, I will walk towards Santiago de la Compostela and hope to arrive at the doors of the cathedral in 30 days.  Each day my goal is to walk at least 15 miles a day. That is my average mileage I hope to accomplish every day. While some days may be longer and others shorter, it will take 15 miles a day to arrive in Santiago.

- megaconstrucciones.net

After the initial shock because of the mileage covered has worn off, the first question is who I will keep company with while on the Camino.  I will be completing El Camino by myself. I do not know anyone going on the Camino with me. Many people think I am crazy to attempt this and that may be so. I have friends who are interested and for variuos reasons are unfortunately unable to make this journey with me. However, I still wanted to complete the Camino. This is one of the few times in my life that I will have the opportunity to budget time to complete this pilgrimage. In the last two years, there have been on average 185,000 people who have officially registered and completed the Camino. Therefore, I do not believe that I will be completely alone. Yes, I do not know anyone who is going with me but I imagine I will run into groups along the way.

The second question I receive when people ask about the Camino is my reasoning for completing the Camino. Yes, as a Catholic, there are religious reasons that drive my decision to complete the Camino. As a person who has studied abroad and learned Spanish for, let's see, 8 years now, I want to see northern Spain. Finally, once I heard about the Camino, it just was intriguing. I want to see what it's all about.

As I start to wrap up, I am starting to reflect on the Camino and this post. Most peligrinos, or pilgrims, after they have completed the Camino, they believe that it truly started when they decided to go on the Camino. For me, I guess I'd say my Camino started about two years ago. I truly am blessed and grateful that I get to experience this.

However, it's really hard to put the entire Camino experience into words. I think that there are two quotes that aptly describe my view of the Camino:

What we see depends mainly on what we look for
- John Lubbock

After all the research and work put into trying to figure out the Camino, you pick up a lot of insight. However, it's no different than any other experience. I'm trying to keep an open mind and go with the flow. I don't have any real expectations for it. (Or I try not to think I do) I have a rough itinerary but I plan on listening to my body. My body will be my itinerary.

Caminante no hay camino, se hace camino al andar
- A. Machado

This second quote translates as followed: "Wanderer, there is no road, the road is made by walking". This is similar to what I've previously said. I will walk and that will create the path. Yes, the path is well-marked, but  I will be fine with just walking and creating my path and my journey.

If you have any questions, please just let me know in the comments and I will respond.

Buen Camino