I came. I saw. I conquered. Or something like that. I arrived in Santiago on Monday, June 16. 795km later (according to my book), I have arrived. I have arrived to Santiago de Compostela exhausted both physically and mental, along with some bumps, bruises, and sprains but regardless, I have arrived unbroken.
Like I said, according to the book, I started this incredible journey 795km (492.9mi) ago while the Compostela says 775km (480.5mi) ago and then my friend Nilanj used his GPS tracking app to measure distance that came out to 896.07km (555.5mi). Now these distances vary due to the distances between albergues, going off the path for a different one or a coffee, etc. Regardless of the "number", I know how far I have walked these last 33 days. My boots look like they could fall apart, my pack is no longer heavy, nor does it look new. The distance really doesnt matter, all that matters is that I am here in Santiago, sitting at a cafe outside of the cathedral relaxing.
I've made a great number of friends throughout this trip. I have had incredible experiences with these friends. From sharing meals, to the pains of walking 30km (18.3mi) a day, to the joys of arriving. I've also lost things such as my poles, my watch, and contact with friends since we all walk at our own pace to our own schedule. Throughout all of this, it has been truly an incredible and amazing experience.
It's crazy to think that it's been 33 days since I started (really 35 now). It seems so long ago when I think about it. Maybe that's because of the distance travelled. Or perhaps due to the struggles that came peppered throughout the trek. Possibly it's due to the fact that when you run into someone along the way, you may not have seen them for two or three weeks since you both went off "schedule". As often as it happens, I think that is the reminder of the time.
But I can't say it's seemed long. The days, the villages, and towns all tend to blur together. At times, I couldn't tell you the day of the week, what the date was, or where I slept two days ago. That doesn't take away from any of those days. A picture, the name of the town or the person I met can and will jog my memory.
I arrived to Santiago with an easy 5km (3.1mi) hike relatively downhill and through suburban Santiago. It was definitely nice. The day before we pushed 40km (24.8mi) to be able to do this. There I saw my first glimpse of Santiago. It was a relief. As we got closer, it wasn't until we were probably 20 minutes away when you could see the cathedral which is impressive even though the front (arguably the most impressive) facade is under renovation.
My friends and I went to get our Compostela which signifies that you have completed the Camino de Santiago and a certificate that stated that we walked from St Jean Pied de Port and a total of 775km. Finally we went to the monastery of St Francis of Assisi. This was founded 800 years ago when St. Francis himself made his pilgrimage to Santiago. They were giving out a certificate to commemorate this. Finally, we took a few laps of the cathedral before we attended the pilgrims mass.
The mass was very nice. It was done in Spanish and there were pilgrims that we had seen throughout the trip. It was a wonderful service in a beautiful cathedral.
Sitting here and arriving brings interesting thoughts. Primarily, it feels anticlimactic. What's next? Don't get me wrong, it's amazing here and I'm enjoying every minute of it. It's been great just sitting in plazas relaxing and watching other groups come in and see the joy and happiness that comes with the arrival. Yet, we are all thinking, what next? I guess that comes with the territory of a daily routine for 33 days that didn't change without fail. Wake up, walk, eat a bit, walk, get a drink, walk, eat and drink, sleep, repeat. But I think that is the journey and the part that was enjoyable and fun. It was great to do that daily routine with my new friends. It was great to have the alone time while walking for contemplation and reflection. The end of every journey tends to be anticlimactic and you wonder whats next. I think it's a very fitting way to end this type of trek. You spend a month or so walking towards this goal; and by the time you get there, you don't know what to expect. But, the philosophy I came into this fits the end I believe.
Caminante, no hay camino, se hace el camino andar. Walker, there is no path you make the path walking. Thats what the end of the Camino is. Its up to you to make that path at the end.
I do not regret this trip in the least bit. I learned a lot about myself, others, and in general. It truly been a unbelievable experience. No matter how many times I say that, it won't do it just. The people I've met and talked to are simply awesome in their own way. Everyone has something to give and something to gain while on the Camino.
If anyone reading this or anyone you know has an itch for an adventure, a challenge, or a journey I recommend this wholeheartedly. This provides a break from society and offers both physical, mental, and emotional challenges. However, I think anyone is capable of doing this. While it is a feat, anyone can do it if they put their mind to it. I would be lying if I said there werent times where I thought I wouldn't make it. We all have had these while on the Camino but we rely on our friends who we've met support, the support from home, and the support of whatever you believe in. So I reiterate my recommendation and my sentiment that anyone can do this.
I want to take the time to thank all those who have supported me through this and kept me in their thoughts and prayers. Some days those were needed more than others and in any case I appreciate it.
I will have probably 2-3 more posts left in this thing. Two of those will hopefully be multimedia posts updating people with photos from my trip. The next post will be a "Q&A" with a best/worse type of deal of things on the Camino as well as any questions in general. So, if you have any questions or suggestions shoot them my way via email, Facebook, or the comments section. Help me out with the recap cause I know people have questions.
To anyone stumbling upon this who is doing the Camino or will do the Camino, let me be the first to say, "Buen Camino".
Or as it was said in the old times, "ultreia et suseia".
Wednesday, June 18, 2014
Monday, June 16, 2014
The final days
Thurs, 6/12
Start: Barbadelo
End: Portomarin
Distance: 20.07 km
Fri, 6/13
Start: Portomarin
End: Palas de Rei
Distance: 27.07 km
Sat, 6/14
Start: Palas de Rei
End: Arzua
Distance: 32.44km
Sun, 6/15
Start: Arzua
End: Monte de Gozo
Distance: 38.89 km
Not much has happened in the last four days. We have been in double digits with the distance for the last 4 days. It's crazy to think that we are so close.
It's getting closer and closer which brings mixed emotions. First and foremost, it's exciting. After walking 785km, or just short of 500 miles, it's exciting to be here. We are in Monte de Gozo and I can see the outskirts of Santiago. It's incredible to see it and to think how far we have come. It's something I believe everyone is capable of doing but actually doing it is incredible. The excitement can be seen throughout. No longer are stops at cafes just rests, but everyone is always cheery regardless of time, taking photos with friends and just enjoying themselves. At times, this was difficult to do before now. I'm also happy I'm almost done, my body more so. I'm aching, tired, and sore. But I'm not broken and able to walk every day. To me, that's a good day on the Camino. It's impossible not to have pains on this journey. I'm happy because we're done and for the same reasons I'm excited. Its a bit nervewracking as well. How will Santiago be? How will I truly feel when I'm standing in front of the cathedral? At the pilgrim mass? As I get my compostela? It's a range of emotions and definitely an unknown. Finally, it's sad. Ive met a ton of amazing people who were great for a conversation, for advice, encouragement, inspiration, or simply a good time. Often these categories overlap. It's sad to end something that has been a daily routine for the last month.
To wrap up, it's definitely interesting here in the closing stretch. Grabbing contact info, capturing friendships and memories, trying to gather the energy to make that final push, whatever you want to say there; regardless my journey will end tomorrow.
I will not be continuing on by foot to Finisterre, the Camino Finisterre, and the end of the world. I came to complete the Camino de Santiago which I shall do tomorrow. Unfortunately, I cant put more stress on the body and therefore I will meet my friends go on via bus in three days time. It's crazy to think I'll be taking a bus, or any vehicle really, to travel. It will take me no time at all to travel 90km where in the last month that could take me up to 4 days.
I currently don't have wifi, but hope to post this before I arrive in Santiago. Regardless, I will be posting my thoughts and events that occur in Santiago upon my arrival. I am going to take a day to reflect on my arrival and post my thoughts on Tuesday or Wednesday. On Thursday, I go to Finisterre and then Friday to Barcelona for a long needed and deserved break to be a true tourist. During that time, I plan to write a recap/review/thoughts on my entire Camino experience.
Finally, I know a few who follow this blog don't have access to my social media profiles where some photos are and will be. Don't worry, I hope to have all of the photos reviewed, edited, and hosted within a week of my return to the States and will host these on social media as well as a photo sharing site so everyone can view them.
Well, I'm off to bed to recover, relax, and prepare for my arrival to Santiago which will be a simple 5km, 3.1 miles, "walk in the park" tomorrow morning.
Start: Barbadelo
End: Portomarin
Distance: 20.07 km
Fri, 6/13
Start: Portomarin
End: Palas de Rei
Distance: 27.07 km
Sat, 6/14
Start: Palas de Rei
End: Arzua
Distance: 32.44km
Sun, 6/15
Start: Arzua
End: Monte de Gozo
Distance: 38.89 km
Not much has happened in the last four days. We have been in double digits with the distance for the last 4 days. It's crazy to think that we are so close.
It's getting closer and closer which brings mixed emotions. First and foremost, it's exciting. After walking 785km, or just short of 500 miles, it's exciting to be here. We are in Monte de Gozo and I can see the outskirts of Santiago. It's incredible to see it and to think how far we have come. It's something I believe everyone is capable of doing but actually doing it is incredible. The excitement can be seen throughout. No longer are stops at cafes just rests, but everyone is always cheery regardless of time, taking photos with friends and just enjoying themselves. At times, this was difficult to do before now. I'm also happy I'm almost done, my body more so. I'm aching, tired, and sore. But I'm not broken and able to walk every day. To me, that's a good day on the Camino. It's impossible not to have pains on this journey. I'm happy because we're done and for the same reasons I'm excited. Its a bit nervewracking as well. How will Santiago be? How will I truly feel when I'm standing in front of the cathedral? At the pilgrim mass? As I get my compostela? It's a range of emotions and definitely an unknown. Finally, it's sad. Ive met a ton of amazing people who were great for a conversation, for advice, encouragement, inspiration, or simply a good time. Often these categories overlap. It's sad to end something that has been a daily routine for the last month.
To wrap up, it's definitely interesting here in the closing stretch. Grabbing contact info, capturing friendships and memories, trying to gather the energy to make that final push, whatever you want to say there; regardless my journey will end tomorrow.
I will not be continuing on by foot to Finisterre, the Camino Finisterre, and the end of the world. I came to complete the Camino de Santiago which I shall do tomorrow. Unfortunately, I cant put more stress on the body and therefore I will meet my friends go on via bus in three days time. It's crazy to think I'll be taking a bus, or any vehicle really, to travel. It will take me no time at all to travel 90km where in the last month that could take me up to 4 days.
I currently don't have wifi, but hope to post this before I arrive in Santiago. Regardless, I will be posting my thoughts and events that occur in Santiago upon my arrival. I am going to take a day to reflect on my arrival and post my thoughts on Tuesday or Wednesday. On Thursday, I go to Finisterre and then Friday to Barcelona for a long needed and deserved break to be a true tourist. During that time, I plan to write a recap/review/thoughts on my entire Camino experience.
Finally, I know a few who follow this blog don't have access to my social media profiles where some photos are and will be. Don't worry, I hope to have all of the photos reviewed, edited, and hosted within a week of my return to the States and will host these on social media as well as a photo sharing site so everyone can view them.
Well, I'm off to bed to recover, relax, and prepare for my arrival to Santiago which will be a simple 5km, 3.1 miles, "walk in the park" tomorrow morning.
Wednesday, June 11, 2014
Last two days
Sorry for the long breaks in the posts. Part of the issue is wifi (or lack of) and then secondly at times its just too late to do so
Mon, 6/9
Start: Cacabelos
End: Las Herrerias
Distance: 33.08 km
Amazing. Pastries.
On our way in, we stopped at a homemade pastry shop. I asked what sweets they had and they brought out two fresh cakes, an apple pound cake and chocolate cake. Obviously I had to get both. I had the apple pound cake then saved the chocolate one for later.
Tues, 6/10
Start: Las Herrerias
End: Triacastela
Distance: 36km
1. Climbing and Descending
We climbed approximately 1250 meters up to start the day over 5-10km. That's around 3750 feet up over 3-6 miles. Definitely rough and brought back memories of Roncesvalles which was the first day. Equally as tough and honestly probably worse was the descent. We ended the day at a similar elevation as the start. We climbed straight up then straight down. No me gusta.
2. My chocolate cake
Remember cake I was saving for a reward and the end of the day? Well I forgot about it until midway through the steep climb up in the morning. Ergo, I had a wonderful chocolate cake for breakfast.
3. The top!
When you climb that high, you get great views. It was incredible. Pictures will be up hopefully in a week or so... No promises
4. O cebriero church
It had a very nice church at the top which was the birthplace of the priest who revitalized the Camino and is responsible for the yellow arrows pilgrims see today and follow religiously.
5. Finding everyone
Once into our final destination and looking for food, we ran into people that we hadn't seen in a few days and sat for a wonderful dinner. As we get closer to Santiago, the likelihood of no longer running into people increases.
5. Semanagrinos
We have ran into the pilgrims who start at or around the 100km mark since it takes a week (hence semana which is week and grinos from peregrinos). It shall be interesting to see the interactions with these people. We had one this evening but I am going to reserve judgement on these pilgrims until I encounter more.
Wed, 6/11
Start: Triacastela
End: Belorado
Distance: 26 km
1. Relatively easy day today. We took our time in and passed where all the new people will start.
2. It was the hottest day so far. Probably around 85 or so. It definitely felt hotter under the sun and walking around. It's only supposed to get hotter.
3. 108km away. That puts us in Santiago either Sunday or Monday. Really crazy to think about.
Mon, 6/9
Start: Cacabelos
End: Las Herrerias
Distance: 33.08 km
Amazing. Pastries.
On our way in, we stopped at a homemade pastry shop. I asked what sweets they had and they brought out two fresh cakes, an apple pound cake and chocolate cake. Obviously I had to get both. I had the apple pound cake then saved the chocolate one for later.
Tues, 6/10
Start: Las Herrerias
End: Triacastela
Distance: 36km
1. Climbing and Descending
We climbed approximately 1250 meters up to start the day over 5-10km. That's around 3750 feet up over 3-6 miles. Definitely rough and brought back memories of Roncesvalles which was the first day. Equally as tough and honestly probably worse was the descent. We ended the day at a similar elevation as the start. We climbed straight up then straight down. No me gusta.
2. My chocolate cake
Remember cake I was saving for a reward and the end of the day? Well I forgot about it until midway through the steep climb up in the morning. Ergo, I had a wonderful chocolate cake for breakfast.
3. The top!
When you climb that high, you get great views. It was incredible. Pictures will be up hopefully in a week or so... No promises
4. O cebriero church
It had a very nice church at the top which was the birthplace of the priest who revitalized the Camino and is responsible for the yellow arrows pilgrims see today and follow religiously.
5. Finding everyone
Once into our final destination and looking for food, we ran into people that we hadn't seen in a few days and sat for a wonderful dinner. As we get closer to Santiago, the likelihood of no longer running into people increases.
5. Semanagrinos
We have ran into the pilgrims who start at or around the 100km mark since it takes a week (hence semana which is week and grinos from peregrinos). It shall be interesting to see the interactions with these people. We had one this evening but I am going to reserve judgement on these pilgrims until I encounter more.
Wed, 6/11
Start: Triacastela
End: Belorado
Distance: 26 km
1. Relatively easy day today. We took our time in and passed where all the new people will start.
2. It was the hottest day so far. Probably around 85 or so. It definitely felt hotter under the sun and walking around. It's only supposed to get hotter.
3. 108km away. That puts us in Santiago either Sunday or Monday. Really crazy to think about.
Monday, June 9, 2014
Last two days
Sat, 6/7
Start: Foncebadon
End: Molinaseca
Distance: 23.04 km
1. The Cruz Ferro
Today we reached the highest point of the Camino. While the one of the most iconic parts of the Camino, the Cruz Ferro, isn't actually the highest point of the Camino, it's still a cool spot. The actual highest point is approximately 1km later. Anywho, this is where you drop off your stone, rock or personal item you've been carrying which symbolizes the burdens you have been carrying while on the Camino. It's definitely a nice and interesting stop. We were only 2k away in the morning so it was a relatively quiet site since people hadnt got there yet due to the climb.
2. The last Templar
A little later, we ran into an recently new village. This village had been deserted for the last few years (appx 20 years). However, Tomás decided to change that and become a Templar who had the job to protect, house, and help pilgrims traveling to and from Jerusalem, Rome, and Santiago among other things. So Tomás brought the village back to "life" and now has a population of 1. He runs a donation based hospital. This hospital allows pilgrims shelter, food, and hospitality.
3. Downhill struggle
We went up 591 meters the day before and now it was straight down. It was rough and awful. My legs didn't like it. We went 600 down and on all rocks and slate. It was no fun.
4. Change of plans
Due to pure downhill struggle and our bodies not agreeing with it, we called it quits early which was good and worked out because...
5. Connections
Nilaj knew someone in Ponferrada but she was out of town. Instead, she asked her friend to show him around and take care of him. It was a lot of fun to hang out with a local of the town that we were in.
Sun, 6/8
Start: Molinaseca
End: Cacabelos
Distance: 28.17 km
1. Churros con chocolate
First time I've had churros con chocolate since my return to Spain. They weren't bad but brought up fond memories of my time in Sevilla
2. Castle
There was a Templar Castle in Ponferada which has passed through several hands throughout the years and then has been renovated now. It had cool history part in the beginning and then was just nice to walk around the castle. It added a bit of distance but wasnt too bad.
2a. The last Templar
Tomás was outside the castle. Pretty cool in my opinion.
3. Daily grind to the max
Since we stopped, which I was happy doing, we had only walked 7k by 1pm. With the entire rest of the 11k being after 1pm and the fact that it was on concrete made it difficult to continue. It was a mental grind then as a result became a physical challenge but we finally got there as we sluggishly arrived.
Start: Foncebadon
End: Molinaseca
Distance: 23.04 km
1. The Cruz Ferro
Today we reached the highest point of the Camino. While the one of the most iconic parts of the Camino, the Cruz Ferro, isn't actually the highest point of the Camino, it's still a cool spot. The actual highest point is approximately 1km later. Anywho, this is where you drop off your stone, rock or personal item you've been carrying which symbolizes the burdens you have been carrying while on the Camino. It's definitely a nice and interesting stop. We were only 2k away in the morning so it was a relatively quiet site since people hadnt got there yet due to the climb.
2. The last Templar
A little later, we ran into an recently new village. This village had been deserted for the last few years (appx 20 years). However, Tomás decided to change that and become a Templar who had the job to protect, house, and help pilgrims traveling to and from Jerusalem, Rome, and Santiago among other things. So Tomás brought the village back to "life" and now has a population of 1. He runs a donation based hospital. This hospital allows pilgrims shelter, food, and hospitality.
3. Downhill struggle
We went up 591 meters the day before and now it was straight down. It was rough and awful. My legs didn't like it. We went 600 down and on all rocks and slate. It was no fun.
4. Change of plans
Due to pure downhill struggle and our bodies not agreeing with it, we called it quits early which was good and worked out because...
5. Connections
Nilaj knew someone in Ponferrada but she was out of town. Instead, she asked her friend to show him around and take care of him. It was a lot of fun to hang out with a local of the town that we were in.
Sun, 6/8
Start: Molinaseca
End: Cacabelos
Distance: 28.17 km
1. Churros con chocolate
First time I've had churros con chocolate since my return to Spain. They weren't bad but brought up fond memories of my time in Sevilla
2. Castle
There was a Templar Castle in Ponferada which has passed through several hands throughout the years and then has been renovated now. It had cool history part in the beginning and then was just nice to walk around the castle. It added a bit of distance but wasnt too bad.
2a. The last Templar
Tomás was outside the castle. Pretty cool in my opinion.
3. Daily grind to the max
Since we stopped, which I was happy doing, we had only walked 7k by 1pm. With the entire rest of the 11k being after 1pm and the fact that it was on concrete made it difficult to continue. It was a mental grind then as a result became a physical challenge but we finally got there as we sluggishly arrived.
Saturday, June 7, 2014
Update
Thurs, 6/4
Start: Villar de Marazife
End: Astroga
Distance: 36.31 km
1. Long, long day
It's been a while since I've done a 35+ km day and I remember why. It was definitely a long day, struggling to get in. We were coming into Astorga, one of the larger cities on the Camino, and as a result, had to go through industrial, suburban areas (which you know my opinion on, but I'll remind you, AWFUL). Anyway, it was just a struggle at the end. My legs hurt, my feet hurt, my ankles and knees hurt all the while the cathedral which was next to the place to stay wasn't getting closer. Then disaster hit.
2. Almost no where to stay
Since it's a big town, Astroga as I am told is a place where a lot of people will start their Camino, approximately 250km from Santiago. In addition, the Camino Frances joins with the Via de la Plata (another Camino starting from Sevilla and ending in Santiago). So, for obvious reasons there are more people. Our luck would have it that a school group of 50 was staying in the 90 bed private albergue. Therefore, the city was essentially booked and full by the time we got there. Luckily, as my friends Greg, Art and I were trying to make it there, our friends Nilaj and David were faster into the city and snagged us potentially the last spots in the city, a spot on the ground in the local convent. Now, they brought us mattresses and blankets so we weren't truly on the ground but regardless, I slept amazingly and was grateful not to have to walk further. And I got a new walking stick for free! The Camino provides
3. Nice cathedral
In a town of 10,000 they had a very nice and impressive cathedral. While it lacked the ornate stained glass, the sheer size made up for it. It was like any other cathedral but in a small town. Next to it was a house built by famous architect Antoni Gaudi, who is known for his work in Barcelona. It was no way near the sophisticated or eccentric works in Barcelona, rather tastefully done and complemented the cathedral nicely
4. Remaining distance
We were around the 250 mark left which means we are close to the 3/4 point and like someone said, we have a lot less to do than what has been done so far.
5. Good pinchos
I had dinner with Greg, Art, David and Nilaj. While the majority chose to go with the preset peregrino meal, or the menu of the day, Nilaj and I chose the pinchos route. Even though the menu meal looked good, the pinchos were better. It was some pork in a good sauce then cheese and fruit. Not very descriptive I know but you'll have to trust me.
I also learned a cool "magic" trick that involves two corks. Greg has been teaching everyone on the Camino.
Friday, 6/6
Start: Astorga
End: Foncebadon
Distance: 29.33 km
1. All up hill
We climbed 591 meters which is close to 2000 feet. It was definitely not easy, but wasnt as hard as I expected. Maybe the Pyrenees helped? Anyway, it was a slow uphill climb that didnt really get steep til the last 4k or so... Convenient. You could definitely tell with the air and how thin it was.
2. Beautiful change of scenery
Since we were climbing, we were going through the mountains. I'll argue that they weren't as nice as the Pyrenees but some disagree. Either way, it was a nice change of pace from the Meseta. It was a rough stretch of nothing changing at all in the barren Meseta. Now were going up and down mountains.
3. Mishap again with beds
So we were told to start reserve places and we did to prevent a repeat of Astorga. We get there and there's only 2 spots left... The guy accidentally put our reservation for the day before. However, they were kind enough to find a way to accommodate us since it was their fault.
4. Great food
This time I went for the pilgrim meal, menu of the day, and it was delicious. Lentil soup, beef in a hearty sauce and then rice pudding. It was delicious and just what I needed. For clarification, the emphasis on good is well deserved. I don't know if I said it, but these menu deals can be rather hit or miss and we've been on the miss side for the most part
5. So many people
I don't know if it's cause of people starting in Astorga, the Via de la Plata, or we are fast but it's seemed to double in the number of people on the Camino which I currently sit undecided on whether it's a good thing or not.
Start: Villar de Marazife
End: Astroga
Distance: 36.31 km
1. Long, long day
It's been a while since I've done a 35+ km day and I remember why. It was definitely a long day, struggling to get in. We were coming into Astorga, one of the larger cities on the Camino, and as a result, had to go through industrial, suburban areas (which you know my opinion on, but I'll remind you, AWFUL). Anyway, it was just a struggle at the end. My legs hurt, my feet hurt, my ankles and knees hurt all the while the cathedral which was next to the place to stay wasn't getting closer. Then disaster hit.
2. Almost no where to stay
Since it's a big town, Astroga as I am told is a place where a lot of people will start their Camino, approximately 250km from Santiago. In addition, the Camino Frances joins with the Via de la Plata (another Camino starting from Sevilla and ending in Santiago). So, for obvious reasons there are more people. Our luck would have it that a school group of 50 was staying in the 90 bed private albergue. Therefore, the city was essentially booked and full by the time we got there. Luckily, as my friends Greg, Art and I were trying to make it there, our friends Nilaj and David were faster into the city and snagged us potentially the last spots in the city, a spot on the ground in the local convent. Now, they brought us mattresses and blankets so we weren't truly on the ground but regardless, I slept amazingly and was grateful not to have to walk further. And I got a new walking stick for free! The Camino provides
3. Nice cathedral
In a town of 10,000 they had a very nice and impressive cathedral. While it lacked the ornate stained glass, the sheer size made up for it. It was like any other cathedral but in a small town. Next to it was a house built by famous architect Antoni Gaudi, who is known for his work in Barcelona. It was no way near the sophisticated or eccentric works in Barcelona, rather tastefully done and complemented the cathedral nicely
4. Remaining distance
We were around the 250 mark left which means we are close to the 3/4 point and like someone said, we have a lot less to do than what has been done so far.
5. Good pinchos
I had dinner with Greg, Art, David and Nilaj. While the majority chose to go with the preset peregrino meal, or the menu of the day, Nilaj and I chose the pinchos route. Even though the menu meal looked good, the pinchos were better. It was some pork in a good sauce then cheese and fruit. Not very descriptive I know but you'll have to trust me.
I also learned a cool "magic" trick that involves two corks. Greg has been teaching everyone on the Camino.
Friday, 6/6
Start: Astorga
End: Foncebadon
Distance: 29.33 km
1. All up hill
We climbed 591 meters which is close to 2000 feet. It was definitely not easy, but wasnt as hard as I expected. Maybe the Pyrenees helped? Anyway, it was a slow uphill climb that didnt really get steep til the last 4k or so... Convenient. You could definitely tell with the air and how thin it was.
2. Beautiful change of scenery
Since we were climbing, we were going through the mountains. I'll argue that they weren't as nice as the Pyrenees but some disagree. Either way, it was a nice change of pace from the Meseta. It was a rough stretch of nothing changing at all in the barren Meseta. Now were going up and down mountains.
3. Mishap again with beds
So we were told to start reserve places and we did to prevent a repeat of Astorga. We get there and there's only 2 spots left... The guy accidentally put our reservation for the day before. However, they were kind enough to find a way to accommodate us since it was their fault.
4. Great food
This time I went for the pilgrim meal, menu of the day, and it was delicious. Lentil soup, beef in a hearty sauce and then rice pudding. It was delicious and just what I needed. For clarification, the emphasis on good is well deserved. I don't know if I said it, but these menu deals can be rather hit or miss and we've been on the miss side for the most part
5. So many people
I don't know if it's cause of people starting in Astorga, the Via de la Plata, or we are fast but it's seemed to double in the number of people on the Camino which I currently sit undecided on whether it's a good thing or not.
Friday, June 6, 2014
Two days ago
Tues, 6/2
Start: Leon
End: Leon
Distance: 6.37 km
1. Sleeping in
Since we stayed in a private hostal which was a room with three beds, we got the luxury of good night sleep with no snoring (seriously, some people can be impressive) and didn't have to leave until 12. So we slept in til 830! Then lounged around until we had to leave and went to an albergue
2. Lounging around Leon basically consisted of moving from plaza to plaza just relaxing, eating some pinchos, having a drink or two, and just relaxing with other pilgrims in Leon. Pilgrims are pretty easy to spot due to their physical ailments which affect how they move as well as their physical apparel. It's kind of funny really.
3. Overall impression of Leon
Since we took the day off, it really allowed us to enjoy Leon. Personally, it has been my favorite city so far. I don't really know why I liked it more than Burgos or Pamplona, but I do. Maybe it's the layout, the people, or perhaps the timing.
4. While I enjoyed the day off and it was much needed, it definitely felt unusual not walking to a new place. As a result, we've ran into a bunch of new people and old friends have caught up. My body is happy that I took the day off. It definitely feels better but at the same time, not a 100%. I think it was necessary to let my body relax a day, yet it will still have it's aches and pains every day til I'm done.
Wed, 6/3
Start: Leon
End: Villar de Mazarife
Distance: 26.41 km
1. Poco a poco
We are getting there. Little by little. I remember hearing Chambao's song before I left to study abroad and basically it translates to little by little. That's how you have to approach it. It's literally just putting one foot in front of the other and taking it a step at a time.
Which brings me to my next point
1a.
It's interesting to see the change between end locations for the day. This change is with pretty much everyone. It's no longer, I need to get to Astorga, for example. It has changed, especially when asked to the typical response, "whenever I can't walk anymore and my legs give out". While the general intenerary everyone has is still important, most have came to the realization that our body's are the timeline/stopwatch. We now go as far as our body will take us and hope it's the stop on our itenerary
2. Relaxing walk
It was an easy day where it was short and seemed to go by quick. I didn't hurt and was feeling good. I guess the rest day helped
3. Getting lost
We took a wrong turn. The signs were misleading. Regardless, we were put on the scenic route which added to our distance tomorrow but didn't really hurt us nor was an issue. It worked out though. We ran into people that we hadn't seen in a long time (a few days, but that is actually a long time here) and were able to catch up with them. Often times, when you pass someone or take a rest day, it is highly possible that you won't see them again. That's why it's awesome to run into people again. While it made the next day longer, it was worth it in the long run (and wasn't against a highway).
Start: Leon
End: Leon
Distance: 6.37 km
1. Sleeping in
Since we stayed in a private hostal which was a room with three beds, we got the luxury of good night sleep with no snoring (seriously, some people can be impressive) and didn't have to leave until 12. So we slept in til 830! Then lounged around until we had to leave and went to an albergue
2. Lounging around Leon basically consisted of moving from plaza to plaza just relaxing, eating some pinchos, having a drink or two, and just relaxing with other pilgrims in Leon. Pilgrims are pretty easy to spot due to their physical ailments which affect how they move as well as their physical apparel. It's kind of funny really.
3. Overall impression of Leon
Since we took the day off, it really allowed us to enjoy Leon. Personally, it has been my favorite city so far. I don't really know why I liked it more than Burgos or Pamplona, but I do. Maybe it's the layout, the people, or perhaps the timing.
4. While I enjoyed the day off and it was much needed, it definitely felt unusual not walking to a new place. As a result, we've ran into a bunch of new people and old friends have caught up. My body is happy that I took the day off. It definitely feels better but at the same time, not a 100%. I think it was necessary to let my body relax a day, yet it will still have it's aches and pains every day til I'm done.
Wed, 6/3
Start: Leon
End: Villar de Mazarife
Distance: 26.41 km
1. Poco a poco
We are getting there. Little by little. I remember hearing Chambao's song before I left to study abroad and basically it translates to little by little. That's how you have to approach it. It's literally just putting one foot in front of the other and taking it a step at a time.
Which brings me to my next point
1a.
It's interesting to see the change between end locations for the day. This change is with pretty much everyone. It's no longer, I need to get to Astorga, for example. It has changed, especially when asked to the typical response, "whenever I can't walk anymore and my legs give out". While the general intenerary everyone has is still important, most have came to the realization that our body's are the timeline/stopwatch. We now go as far as our body will take us and hope it's the stop on our itenerary
2. Relaxing walk
It was an easy day where it was short and seemed to go by quick. I didn't hurt and was feeling good. I guess the rest day helped
3. Getting lost
We took a wrong turn. The signs were misleading. Regardless, we were put on the scenic route which added to our distance tomorrow but didn't really hurt us nor was an issue. It worked out though. We ran into people that we hadn't seen in a long time (a few days, but that is actually a long time here) and were able to catch up with them. Often times, when you pass someone or take a rest day, it is highly possible that you won't see them again. That's why it's awesome to run into people again. While it made the next day longer, it was worth it in the long run (and wasn't against a highway).
Wednesday, June 4, 2014
Tues, 6/2
Start: Leon
End: Leon
Distance: 6.37 km
1. Sleeping in
Since we stayed in a private hostal which was a room with three beds, we got the luxury of good night sleep with no snoring (seriously, some people can be impressive) and didn't have to leave until 12. So we slept in til 830! Then lounged around until we had to leave and went to an albergue
2. Lounging around Leon basically consisted of moving from plaza to plaza just relaxing, eating some pinchos, having a drink or two, and just relaxing with other pilgrims in Leon. Pilgrims are pretty easy to spot due to their physical ailments which affect how they move as well as their physical apparel. It's kind of funny really.
3. Overall impression of Leon
Since we took the day off, it really allowed us to enjoy Leon. Personally, it has been my favorite city so far. I don't really know why I liked it more than Burgos or Pamplona, but I do. Maybe it's the layout, the people, or perhaps the timing.
4. While I enjoyed the day off and it was much needed, it definitely felt unusual not walking to a new place. As a result, we've ran into a bunch of new people and old friends have caught up. My body is happy that I took the day off. It definitely feels better but at the same time, not a 100%. I think it was necessary to let my body relax a day, yet it will still have it's aches and pains every day til I'm done
Start: Leon
End: Leon
Distance: 6.37 km
1. Sleeping in
Since we stayed in a private hostal which was a room with three beds, we got the luxury of good night sleep with no snoring (seriously, some people can be impressive) and didn't have to leave until 12. So we slept in til 830! Then lounged around until we had to leave and went to an albergue
2. Lounging around Leon basically consisted of moving from plaza to plaza just relaxing, eating some pinchos, having a drink or two, and just relaxing with other pilgrims in Leon. Pilgrims are pretty easy to spot due to their physical ailments which affect how they move as well as their physical apparel. It's kind of funny really.
3. Overall impression of Leon
Since we took the day off, it really allowed us to enjoy Leon. Personally, it has been my favorite city so far. I don't really know why I liked it more than Burgos or Pamplona, but I do. Maybe it's the layout, the people, or perhaps the timing.
4. While I enjoyed the day off and it was much needed, it definitely felt unusual not walking to a new place. As a result, we've ran into a bunch of new people and old friends have caught up. My body is happy that I took the day off. It definitely feels better but at the same time, not a 100%. I think it was necessary to let my body relax a day, yet it will still have it's aches and pains every day til I'm done
Tuesday, June 3, 2014
Day 18? They're blurring together
6/2
Start: Mansilla de las Mulas
End: Leon
Distance: 23.44 km
1. Blister lady and German dude
The lady at the last municipal was the blister lady. She took care of my blisters without question, told me that they shouldn't be an issue, and how to know when to pop them. The German in the albergue was able to show me a better way to wrap my ankle. It seemed to help and showed me some things to prevent blisters on my toes. Both of them scolded me for the duct tape use since it's for construction and not for the body, but it worked...
2. Short day, all on pavement
Walking on pavement is awful. It was only 23 km into Leon but it was on all pavement along the road. It was no fun. It hurts the feet, there's typically nothing to see, and typically I don't like walking along the road but hey that's just me. This leads to my next point
3. Walking into big cities
It is awful. You are walking along the road on pavement which after walking so far, it hurts. There's no give. More importantly, I have two main reasons for my dislike of walking into a city.
3a. Typically, when you see a city, town, village it's with 5k, or 3.1 miles. That's doable and can help push into where you're going to stop for a break or the day. However, in a big city that 5k is probably to the suburb. You have at least 2k until you hit the city then you have to find the place to stop. Therefore, you're looking at more like 7k+ which is a killer
3b. You walk through suburb and the industrial areas of the city. For example, we walked through car dealerships and mechanic shops for a good 3k yesterday. Not fun.
4. Pizza and everything we needed
We have been craving pizza and ice cream for a while now. We were able to find both of these pretty quickly. The first pizza, yes I said first pizza, was mediocre at best in quality but it was incredible due to desire and need for food. We found a nice private hostal that would allow us to sleep in and not be with 70-100 others. Then, ice cream happened as my friend Nilaj went looking for new shoes since he was walking soleless. Overall, it's started out as a good rest day. I'd imagine that yesterday was the most food and calories I've consumed all trip.
5. Leon is cool so far
We walked around a bit last night, probably more than we should have, and got to see some of the city. It's pretty cool in my opinion. Id say it's my favorite out of Pamplona and Burgos so far. Granted I've not seen much but still see the point above. It reminds me a lot of Sevilla and is a stereotypical Spanish city especially when it comes to the old town. I'll have a better write up tonight.
For those of you following this blog, I don't always post via social media that it's updated but it typically gets a post daily depending on whether the place has wifi.
Start: Mansilla de las Mulas
End: Leon
Distance: 23.44 km
1. Blister lady and German dude
The lady at the last municipal was the blister lady. She took care of my blisters without question, told me that they shouldn't be an issue, and how to know when to pop them. The German in the albergue was able to show me a better way to wrap my ankle. It seemed to help and showed me some things to prevent blisters on my toes. Both of them scolded me for the duct tape use since it's for construction and not for the body, but it worked...
2. Short day, all on pavement
Walking on pavement is awful. It was only 23 km into Leon but it was on all pavement along the road. It was no fun. It hurts the feet, there's typically nothing to see, and typically I don't like walking along the road but hey that's just me. This leads to my next point
3. Walking into big cities
It is awful. You are walking along the road on pavement which after walking so far, it hurts. There's no give. More importantly, I have two main reasons for my dislike of walking into a city.
3a. Typically, when you see a city, town, village it's with 5k, or 3.1 miles. That's doable and can help push into where you're going to stop for a break or the day. However, in a big city that 5k is probably to the suburb. You have at least 2k until you hit the city then you have to find the place to stop. Therefore, you're looking at more like 7k+ which is a killer
3b. You walk through suburb and the industrial areas of the city. For example, we walked through car dealerships and mechanic shops for a good 3k yesterday. Not fun.
4. Pizza and everything we needed
We have been craving pizza and ice cream for a while now. We were able to find both of these pretty quickly. The first pizza, yes I said first pizza, was mediocre at best in quality but it was incredible due to desire and need for food. We found a nice private hostal that would allow us to sleep in and not be with 70-100 others. Then, ice cream happened as my friend Nilaj went looking for new shoes since he was walking soleless. Overall, it's started out as a good rest day. I'd imagine that yesterday was the most food and calories I've consumed all trip.
5. Leon is cool so far
We walked around a bit last night, probably more than we should have, and got to see some of the city. It's pretty cool in my opinion. Id say it's my favorite out of Pamplona and Burgos so far. Granted I've not seen much but still see the point above. It reminds me a lot of Sevilla and is a stereotypical Spanish city especially when it comes to the old town. I'll have a better write up tonight.
For those of you following this blog, I don't always post via social media that it's updated but it typically gets a post daily depending on whether the place has wifi.
Sunday, June 1, 2014
The Last Three Days (for real)
I feel the need to clarify and explain myself about the busegrinos. For those of you unaware what a busegrino is, look back at previous posts. For me, there's a difference between a bus tour and a pilgrim taking a bus. The bus tour where you go town to town bothers me. However, there are pilgrims who bus or take a taxi for part of the Camino. This may be for physical reasons, such as injury, fatigue, or inability to walk the entire way, or simply it's a matter of time. Everyone gets to Santiago in their own time and manner. Therefore, I see no problems with using a vehicle to get to another town. But to bus the entire way in a "tour" package is what troubles me.
Anywho, back to the thoughts
5/30
Start: Corríon de las Condes
End: Ledigos
Distance: 26.04 km
1. 17km start
Were in the Meseta which is nothing. So, we have the luxury to walk 17 km to the next town. Imagine Kansas, or a flat wheat field, and then walk straight with that to your right and left. Do that for 17 km, or approximately 11 miles, with no houses, food, water, or anything. I'd probably pass someone every 45 minutes, or theyd pass me. There was no shade or benches. It was definitely a mental challenge.
2. Pack weight
Since there were no stops, you had to carry enough water and food for emergencies. It's crazy how much weight some peanuts, two bananas and some meat can add. I've grown accustomed to the weight but the addition of the food was surprising cause I could feel it.
3. The race for beds
Sometimes it feels like you're racing for a bed each day which is annoying. Some days you have to worry about not have a place to stay and keep walking. So far, we've been close but not actually been without a bed
4. Midpoint
We got to the mileage halfway point. It's crazy to think that we are halfway and it's been 390 km.
5/31
Start: Ledigos
End: Bercianos del Real Camino
Distance: 29 km
1. Ran into Art and Greg
They are retired friends from Columbus, Ohio who we ran into about a week ago. They had some leg issues and needed to bus ahead to stay on schedule. It was great to run into them and catch up. I had dinner with them both and they are a wealth of knowledge.
2. Relatively easy day
It was still difficult but on the easier side.
3. Feet in bad shape
You'll just have to see the photo. My feet dont look good. They've got blisters and my ankle isn't ideal. But I can walk and I am doing fine. I guess that's the price you pay or walking 390km
4. Geographical midpoint
Today was the geographical midpoint which I don't know what the difference between the geographical midpoint and the mileage midpoint. Anyway, were halfway.
Midpoint reflection
It's hard to think it's halfway. I don't know how to put it in words. I'm glad it's halfway. Were almost done. It's promising. Yet, it's still 390km away. Kinda daunting. We've got mountains to climb still. It will still be challenging. While my routine is now the norm, I can't say that it's getting easier. It's still a challenge every day. Some days mentally, others physically. Regardless, I'm happy I'm doing this. I expect to finish, both God and body willing. It can and will be done. I'm on schedule which is good and a bit surprising.
6/1
Start: Bercianos del Real Camino
End: Mansilla de las Mulas
Distance: 29km
1. It was 13 km into a vast walk of nothing between towns. Before that, it was 7 km. Not very fun or exciting but hey what can you do.
2. My feet are worse. That is all
3. We go into Leon tomorrow and will have a rest day the following day. It will be needed on all levels
Anywho, back to the thoughts
5/30
Start: Corríon de las Condes
End: Ledigos
Distance: 26.04 km
1. 17km start
Were in the Meseta which is nothing. So, we have the luxury to walk 17 km to the next town. Imagine Kansas, or a flat wheat field, and then walk straight with that to your right and left. Do that for 17 km, or approximately 11 miles, with no houses, food, water, or anything. I'd probably pass someone every 45 minutes, or theyd pass me. There was no shade or benches. It was definitely a mental challenge.
2. Pack weight
Since there were no stops, you had to carry enough water and food for emergencies. It's crazy how much weight some peanuts, two bananas and some meat can add. I've grown accustomed to the weight but the addition of the food was surprising cause I could feel it.
3. The race for beds
Sometimes it feels like you're racing for a bed each day which is annoying. Some days you have to worry about not have a place to stay and keep walking. So far, we've been close but not actually been without a bed
4. Midpoint
We got to the mileage halfway point. It's crazy to think that we are halfway and it's been 390 km.
5/31
Start: Ledigos
End: Bercianos del Real Camino
Distance: 29 km
1. Ran into Art and Greg
They are retired friends from Columbus, Ohio who we ran into about a week ago. They had some leg issues and needed to bus ahead to stay on schedule. It was great to run into them and catch up. I had dinner with them both and they are a wealth of knowledge.
2. Relatively easy day
It was still difficult but on the easier side.
3. Feet in bad shape
You'll just have to see the photo. My feet dont look good. They've got blisters and my ankle isn't ideal. But I can walk and I am doing fine. I guess that's the price you pay or walking 390km
4. Geographical midpoint
Today was the geographical midpoint which I don't know what the difference between the geographical midpoint and the mileage midpoint. Anyway, were halfway.
Midpoint reflection
It's hard to think it's halfway. I don't know how to put it in words. I'm glad it's halfway. Were almost done. It's promising. Yet, it's still 390km away. Kinda daunting. We've got mountains to climb still. It will still be challenging. While my routine is now the norm, I can't say that it's getting easier. It's still a challenge every day. Some days mentally, others physically. Regardless, I'm happy I'm doing this. I expect to finish, both God and body willing. It can and will be done. I'm on schedule which is good and a bit surprising.
6/1
Start: Bercianos del Real Camino
End: Mansilla de las Mulas
Distance: 29km
1. It was 13 km into a vast walk of nothing between towns. Before that, it was 7 km. Not very fun or exciting but hey what can you do.
2. My feet are worse. That is all
3. We go into Leon tomorrow and will have a rest day the following day. It will be needed on all levels
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)