Update

Thurs, 6/4
Start: Villar de Marazife
End: Astroga
Distance: 36.31 km

1. Long, long day
It's been a while since I've done a 35+ km day and I remember why. It was definitely a long day, struggling to get in. We were coming into Astorga, one of the larger cities on the Camino, and as a result, had to go through industrial, suburban areas (which you know my opinion on, but I'll remind you, AWFUL). Anyway, it was just a struggle at the end. My legs hurt, my feet hurt, my ankles and knees hurt all the while the cathedral which was next to the place to stay wasn't getting closer. Then disaster hit. 

2. Almost no where to stay
Since it's a big town, Astroga as I am told is a place where a lot of people will start their Camino, approximately 250km from Santiago. In addition, the Camino Frances joins with the Via de la Plata (another Camino starting from Sevilla and ending in Santiago). So, for obvious reasons there are more people. Our luck would have it that a school group of 50 was staying in the 90 bed private albergue. Therefore, the city was essentially booked and full by the time we got there. Luckily, as my friends Greg, Art and I were trying to make it there, our friends Nilaj and David were faster into the city and snagged us potentially the last spots in the city, a spot on the ground in the local convent. Now, they brought us mattresses and blankets so we weren't truly on the ground but regardless, I slept amazingly and was grateful not to have to walk further. And I got a new walking stick for free! The Camino provides

3. Nice cathedral
In a town of 10,000 they had a very nice and impressive cathedral. While it lacked the ornate stained glass, the sheer size made up for it. It was like any other cathedral but in a small town. Next to it was a house built by famous architect Antoni Gaudi, who is known for his work in Barcelona. It was no way near the sophisticated or eccentric works in Barcelona, rather tastefully done and complemented the cathedral nicely

4. Remaining distance
We were around the 250 mark left which means we are close to the 3/4 point and like someone said, we have a lot less to do than what has been done so far. 

5. Good pinchos
I had dinner with Greg, Art, David and Nilaj. While the majority chose to go with the preset peregrino meal, or the menu of the day, Nilaj and I chose the pinchos route. Even though the menu meal looked good, the pinchos were better. It was some pork in a good sauce then cheese and fruit. Not very descriptive I know but you'll have to trust me. 

I also learned a cool "magic" trick that involves two corks. Greg has been teaching everyone on the Camino.

Friday, 6/6
Start: Astorga
End: Foncebadon
Distance: 29.33 km

1. All up hill
We climbed 591 meters which is close to 2000 feet. It was definitely not easy, but wasnt as hard as I expected. Maybe the Pyrenees helped? Anyway, it was a slow uphill climb that didnt really get steep til the last 4k or so... Convenient. You could definitely tell with the air and how thin it was.

2. Beautiful change of scenery
Since we were climbing, we were going through the mountains. I'll argue that they weren't as nice as the Pyrenees but some disagree. Either way, it was a nice change of pace from the Meseta. It was a rough stretch of nothing changing at all in the barren Meseta. Now were going up and down mountains. 

3. Mishap again with beds
So we were told to start reserve places and we did to prevent a repeat of Astorga. We get there and there's only 2 spots left... The guy accidentally put our reservation for the day before. However, they were kind enough to find a way to accommodate us since it was their fault. 

4. Great food
This time I went for the pilgrim meal, menu of the day, and it was delicious. Lentil soup, beef in a hearty sauce and then rice pudding. It was delicious and just what I needed. For clarification, the emphasis on good is well deserved. I don't know if I said it, but these menu deals can be rather hit or miss and we've been on the miss side for the most part

5. So many people
I don't know if it's cause of people starting in Astorga, the Via de la Plata, or we are fast but it's seemed to double in the number of people on the Camino which I currently sit undecided on whether it's a good thing or not.